November 30, 2015 - The 22-year-old German climber Alex Megos redpointed Demencia Senil (9a+/5.15a) at Margalef, Spain, on his second try on Saturday. The route was established by Chris Sharma in 2009 and begins with a severe, roof-like bulge. Megos had climbed to the third bolt two years ago but said it "felt too hard." Not anymore. This time he worked the route carefully all the way to the top and then sent it next go.
This is not the first time Megos has climbed 5.15a extremely quickly. He did it with La Rambla at Siurana, Spain, in 2013, and in 2014 he climbed Realization at Ceüse, France, also 5.15a, on his third go. Megos also onsighted an 8c+/5.14c route, Victimes del Passat, at Margalef. In 2013, he did the world's first 9a onsight, motoring up Estado Critico at Siurana.
A photo posted by @alexandermegos on Nov 28, 2015 at 9:14am PST