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7/12/14 – The German phenom Alexander Megos, 20, has completed a one-day ascent of Realization, generally accepted as the world’s first 5.15a, at Ceüse, France. Megos redpointed the route July 11 on his third try.
At his Facebook page, Megos posted: “YEAAAH! Having a great time here in Ceüse!!!… Super happy to have done the classic ‘Realization’ or ‘Biographie’ (however you want to call it) in one day yesterday! Checked out the route and send it in 3rd go afterward.”
Chris Sharma made the first free ascent of the full route in 2001, calling it Realization. The line had been bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who called it Biographie; Arnaud Petit redpointed the first section of Biographie to a midpoint anchor at 5.14c. Both names are used today. Since Sharma’s ascent, at least eight different climbers have redpointed the full 5.15a pitch, including three more Americans: Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle, and Jonathan Siegrist, who sent the pitch in early June of this year.
In March 2013, Megos did the first 9a (5.14d) onsight ever: Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. Based on this and other achievements last year, Climbing gave a Golden Piton for “breakthrough performance” to the young climber.
Date of ascent: July 11, 2014