Anchor Upgrade in White Rock, New Mexico

Report and photos by Jason Halladay - I had received some hardware from the ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative) to be used to replace old and worn anchors. I had hardware for four anchors and believed that the anchors at Gallows Edge (on the basalt cliffs below White Rock, NM) could benefit from an upgrade. Gallows Edge has a number of well-protected moderate sport climbs on great rock and is a natural first choice location for new climbers looking to gain some leading experience. I replaced the anchor hardware on Pejos Route, Once Were Warriors, Princess Buttercup and Planet of the Apes. I only had to drill one new hole, on Princess Buttercup, as the bolts in situ were good, stainless steel bolts.