April 2008 - 265

April 2008 - 265

FEATURESCover: Kate Rutherford strolls up Joshua Tree’s one and only Illusion Dweller (5.10b), the Sentinel. Photo: Simon Carter

GALLERY Ace lensman Simon Carter takes you on a tour of spring cragging heaven: Joshua Tree National Park, California.

LEGENDS OF THE FALL Go behind the gritstone curtain, for a glimpse of the mindsets, methodologies, and tormented thought processes of England’s E9 and E10 headpoint pioneers. By Kevin Thaw

THE BLACK DOG Depression, obsession, fear, death, madness, and suicide — welcome to the dark side of the climbing equation, as revealed through five first-person essays. By Kenneth Long, Fitz Cahall, Majka Burhardt, Matt Samet, and Chad Shepard Illustrations by Chad Shepard

THE CONTRARIAN “Fly’n” Brian McCray is one of our sport’s best all-arounders, over the last 20 years amassing a body of climbs unparalleled in his generation. And the thing is, he’s done it his way. By Fitz Cahall Photos by James Q Martin

April 2008 - 265

DEPARTMENTSCONTRIBUTORS Chad Shepard, Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, and Whitney Levine

EDITORIAL Need: climbing and the dark power of obsession

LETTERS BASECAMP HOT FLASHES OFF THE WALL PLAYERS JUST OUT TEN THINGS GET SCRAPPY ROADKILL SUSTAINED CLASSIC CLIMBS Razor’s Edge, Superstition Mountains, Arizona — a spooky arête in the haunted desert highlands

TECH TIP Alpine: the Swiss Method — two simple knots for easier roped glacier travel

PERSPECTIVE Steve McClure: routesetter, coach, writer, speaker, DIY expert, father; Sheffield, United Kingdom