Big New Mixed Route in Norway


Sons of Anarchy (M7 R) in Hemsedal, Norway. Photo by Aaron Mulkey

Big New Mixed Route in Norway

3/12/12 - Aaron Mulkey, Kevin Craig, and Stephen Berwanger have nailed the first ascent of Sons of Anarchy, a mixed route long coveted by local climbers in Hemsedal, Norway. After the ascent on March 3, Mulkey offered a rating of M7 R for the route.

Local guide Jørgen Aamot pointed the American climbers to the route on Veslehorn Mountain, known for the Hydnefossen, a large waterfall on the eastern face of the mountain. Many climbers had attempted the line, but the route had remained unfinished.

Despite sunny skies and high temperatures, the climbers found the mixed route ready to be climbed. “Rather than ruin our trip,” wrote Mulkey in an email, “the warm weather had just created ideal conditions for the route.”

Mulkey described the eight-pitch route, saying, “Every pitch had high-quality true mixed climbing involving thin ice, chockstones, quality rock, as well as classic Scottish frozen moss and turf climbing. All of the pitches were very enjoyable and run-out providing very engaging climbing.”

Mulkey is dedicated to ice-climbing exploration, and has established more than 60 first ascents in the area surrounding Cody, Wyoming, since 1999. Some of the well-known ice climbs he’s established include The Gambler (WI6+), My Morning Glory (WI5+) and Hell's Angel (WI5). Mulkey continuously searches the canyons surround his home in Cody, searching for untapped lines, sometimes establishing as many as 25 climbs in a season.

He thinks Sons of Anarchy is one of the best first ascents he's done. “We topped out the final pitch right at dark knowing we had just completed one of the best routes in our life,” said Mulkey. “We are very thankful to Jørgen Aamot for giving us this gift!”

Route breakdown:Sons of Anarchy: M7 R, 1,500 feet • P1: M4, 40 meters • P2: 120 meters to chimney, steep snow • P3: M7, 25 meters • P4: M5, 60 meters • P5: 120 meters, steep snow • P6: M6, 60 meters • P7: M6, 70 meters • P8: 30 meters, steep snow cornice exit

Date of ascent: March 3, 2012

Source: Aaron Mulkey