Olga Shalagina gripping on to victory.
July 5 was a day for upsets at the World Championships of bouldering in Munich, Germany, as the 37-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia stole the show for the men and a young Ukranian who rarely competes snatched gold from the women’s field. Rakhmetov has been competing on an international level for 15 years and has won numerous World Cups but is ranked only 12th on the bouldering World Cup circuit this year. Still, he dominated a field of 112 men that included all of the world’s top-ranked competitive boulderers, leaving current points leader Jérôme Meyer in the dust in 10th place. Ethan Pringle was the top American in 19th.If you only looked at the results from this weekend’s Munich comp, you’d have expected bouldering gold medalist Olha Shalagina of Ukraine to do well—after all, she was fourth in the lead-climbing championship three days earlier. But Shalagina, 22, has not even competed this year on the World Cup circuit and was ranked 25th last year in bouldering World Cups. She managed to finish all six problems in the final round to easily win gold, disappointing favorites Sandrine Levet and Olga Bibik, who finished 16th and sixth, respectively. American Lizzy Asher ended up with a very respectable 11th place, and Emily Harrington, fresh off her stunning second place in Saturday’s lead-climbing contest, finished 18th.In the speed climbing World Championships on July 3, eastern Europeans predictably dominated, with speed specialist Evgeny Vaitsekhovski of Russia taking the gold for the men and Ukranian Olena Ryepko for the women.
Men’s Bouldering 1. Salavat Rakhmetov (RUS) 2. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) 3. Gérome Pouvreau (FRA) 4. Serik Kazbekov (UKR) 5. Nalle Hukkataival (FIN) 19. Ethan Pringle (USA) 46. Michael Feinberg (USA) 78. Patrick Cassiday (USA) 96. Christian Ehlert (MEX) 98. Mauricio Huerta (MEX)
Women’s Bouldering 1. Olha Shalagina (UKR) 2. Ioulia Abramtchouk (RUS) 3. Vera Kotasova (CZE) 4. Renata Piszczek (POL) 5. Anna Stöhr (AUT) 11. Elizabeth Asher (USA) 18. Emily Harrington (USA) 27. Natasha Barnes (USA) Men’s Speed 1. Evgeny Vaitsekhovski (RUS) 2. Maxim Stenkovoi (UKR) 3. Serguei Sinitsyne (RUS) 23. Brett Ashton (USA) 38. Patrick Cassiday (USA) Women’s Speed 1. Olena Ryepko (UKR) 2. Valentina Yurina (RUS) 3. Edyta Ropek (POL)