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Where One Man’s Junk Is Another’s Gold: Making a Roadcut Into a Crag

A small but stoked and growing community makes the most of what they have.

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This article was published in the Fall 2021 edition of Gym Climber, available at your local climbing gym.

Give someone a roadcut, and they will make it a crag. This is exactly what Deyvisson Bastos Silva did along a lonely stretch of highway on the outskirts of Santo Antônio de Pádua, in northwest Rio de Janeiro state. In case you flunked geography, that’s Brazil, about 5,770.71 miles from our offices in Carbondale, Colorado.

 “I was traveling to visit my grandmother in another city near Pádua, and I come back on this road after sundown,” Silva told me. “I saw this wall and immediately I imagined the possibilities. I called my climbing partners Herivelto Marinho, Cleiton Mello, and Alice Souza, and we started to open the routes in December of 2019.”

With the help of some industry partners, Murinho is getting what it needs: holds, bolts, even crushed rocks for the base. (Photo: Deyvisson Bastos Silva)

The crag now has a name, “Murinho,” meaning wall, and about 22 routes and counting. Grades get as hard as 5.12b, but, says Silva, Murinho also has a children’s route. The climbs are a mix of indoor and outdoor with plastic holds bolted to a blank real-rock wall. Anyone can climb there, for free. Judging from their Insta feed, the walls are getting tons of love. I’m a tad jealous with how much fun they are having. The climbers are tailgating, partying, kids running about, and, best of all, the approach is about the same as at Rifle. 

The community does have crags, with about 50 routes  within a 25-mile radius. However, there is no gym … hence, Murinho.

(Photo: Deyvisson Bastos Silva)

Silva says: “Our climbing community in Pádua has a few climbers and we are trying to increase the number of rock climbers in the region. We have a lot of mountains and beautiful rocks. We believe that this wall will help to show the rock climbing sport to the people. In 2020, we worked hard to open new routes and we receive support from four important partners from industry: Âncora Sistemas de Fixação, Bonier, 4Climb, and ConquistaMontanhismo.”

Of late, they have received some crushed rocks for the base of the wall, to keep it from becoming a mud pit.

“If possible, follow us,” Silva said. “We need help to make the wall better than now. We trying to install electricity to climb in the night and we trying to improve the ground of the place.”

You heard that, dear readers, they need to climb at night!! Yes they do!! Go find them on Insta at @muro_de_escalada_padua and give them a like. This is what it’s all about.

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