Brits Complete Major New Route in India

The West Face of Vasuki Parbat (22,283'). The new route followed the main snow and mixed line in the middle of the photo, just left of the huge rock wall, and then traversed left along the complex ridgeline to reach the summit. Photo by Satya Dam

The West Face of Vasuki Parbat (22,283

11/3/10 - News Link: Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg have done the first ascent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat (6,792m/22,283'), a little-known but major peak in northern India's Gangotri area. The two acclimatized on nearby Bhagirathi II with Pat Deavoll from New Zealand, who then started up Vasuki Parbat with them but retreated after three days, about halfway up the face, feeling unprepared after a recent back injury.

Bass and Figg carried on with increasing technical difficulty in the upper wall. Despite a rockfall injury, a 35-foot fall, and dropped gear and camera, the two topped out on the face on the eighth day of climbing, then traversed a long ridgeline toward the summit, where they stopped just below the top out of respect for the deity Vasuki. Out of food, the pair traversed the peak and descended the northwest ridge, returning to camp late on their 10th day out.

The Britons likely made the third ascent of the peak. Their route had seen a serious attempt in 2008 by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, who climbed six days on the west face, reaching about 6,400 meters, before retreating.

Read the full story at the BMC website.

Date of Ascent: October 2010

Source:, Lindsay Griffin