Canadians Top Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan

Proposed canadian route up K6 West

The proposed Canadian route up K6 West (ca. 23,097') in Pakistan. It's not yet known if the Canadian climbers followed this line to make the peak's first ascent. At left is K6 (ca. 23,890'), first climbed by Austrians in 1970. Photo by Rafael Slawinski.

8/8/13 - Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted have reportedly climbed K6 West (ca. 7,040m) in Pakistan's Charakusa Valley, successfully concluding an expedition that was severely disrupted by the attacks at Nanga Parbat base camp in mid-June. The Canadian pair climbed K6 West via the northwest face over five days, in alpine style, reaching the top on July 28. They were back in base camp by July 30.

K6 West has been the objective of several expeditions, including strong climbers such as Steve House, Vince Anderson, Marko Prezelj, and others, but dangerous conditions have prevented serious attempts on the peak until now.

The Canadian expedition was nearly derailed by the terrorist attack on Nanga Parbat base camp in June in which 11 people were killed. The Karakoram Highway was closed after the attack, forcing the team to return to Islamabad. After weighing the risks of continuing, team member Jesse Huey decided to return home to America while the Canadians opted to fly to Skardu and continue their expedition.

The Charakusa, Baltoro, and other regions north and east of Skardu are considered safer for travelers than the Chilas area around Nanga Parbat. In a sign of the continuing dangers around Chilas, terrorists shot and killed three police officers investigating the Nanga Parbat murders earlier this week.

Date of ascent: July 2013

Sources:, American Alpine Journal