Caprez Makes Third Ascent of 8-Pitch 5.14a


8/10/12 - Swiss climber Nina Caprez and partner Cédric Lachat have free climbed the eight-pitch Carnet d’Adresse (5.14a) on the Rocher du Midi in France's Chartreuse Mountains.Lachat made the second free ascent a week before Caprez's first female ascent. The 820-foot route was established in 2002 by Philippe Mussato and received a first free ascent in 2011 by Yann Guesquiers.“I’m super psyched to make the third ascent,” Caprez said in email. “I love to climb the same routes as the strongest guys in the world.”Carnet d’Adresse’seight limestone pitches are graded 5.11d, 5.12c, 5.12d, 5.14a, 5.12a, 5.13b, 5.13a, and 5.13c. Caprez describes the climbing style as varied, with the key pitches on vertical to slightly overhanging slabs.“Most of the pitches were super bouldery with really intensive cruxes on small holds,” Caprez said. “Beside the first three pitches, the climb was awesome on fantastic grey limestone.”This adds to Caprez’s already impressive tick list, including Silbergeier (5.14a, six pitches), in the Swiss Alps; Mind Control (5.14c) in Oliana, Spain; and Fish Eye(5.14b), in Oliana.“I like the huge feeling of freedom when I’m on the wall and climbing super strong,” Caprez said. “In these moments I know why I chose this way of life. It opens my mind to so many things in life.”

Date of ascent: July 21, 2012

Source: Nina Caprez,