Chelsea Rude - Lead World Cup in Boulder, CO - Climbing Magazine

Chelsea Rude - Lead World Cup in Boulder, CO


Having a Lead World Cup in Boulder, where I currently call home, is going to be awesome. First of all, this event is going to take place at Movement Climbing + Fitness, my home gym. And second of all, the crowd is going to made up of friends from the Boulder community, kids from Team Sik Bird that I coach, as well as my family from all over the country. The psych and motivation couldn’t be higher!

In my eyes, I see that this World Cup represents how climbing has advanced and continues to advance within the U.S. The last Lead World Cup that was hosted on American soil was Snowbird held in 1989. Since then our National Federation has gone through whirlwinds of changes to finally have arrived at a strong and united federation (USAC) who is ready and willing to hold events such as this as well as the Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Games in Vail. In addition, the U.S. now has gyms that meet IFSC standards and can successfully hold a large competition such as this. This event is extremely important for all of the U.S. Team athletes, too, because we often have little appearance at the World Cups in Europe due to the cost of traveling, etc. In addition, the route setting styles in Europe are different than here in the U.S. Their routes are very sustained with few rests. Americans typically get worked by this style and end up not performing to the best of their ability. This comp, I think, will be a mixture of the power endurancy Euro style with the burly cruxes & rests that American setters typically set. As long as our U.S. Team has been training, I believe that we can do really well!

I started training for this competition in July. In the beginning I was doing lots of moves (up to 1,000) most mornings at Movement at 6 a.m. I had to get started early otherwise as the crowds would start coming into the gym, it would get quite difficult and tedious to finish the 1,000 moves. Now, as the comp is only three weeks away, I’ve reduced my volume work and have increased working on my power. Through all of these months, I have been doing conditioning and anaerobic-strength training through Athletik Specifik with Dave Wahl. To keep me sane through all of this work, I’ve also integrated yoga. Hopefully this training plan will work for the comp, but you never really know as anything can happen in a given competition. Two days after the World Cup, I am traveling to Spain with my boyfriend to climb on limestone! A’muerte!