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Chris Van Leuven

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Chris on the summit of the Central Tower of Paine, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile.

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Age: 1977

Forte: Thrift store shopping, swimming, longboarding, and nerding on my computer.

Favorite Drink: Endurox

How long have you been with Climbing: 3 months interning, 2 months properly employed.

How did you end up with Climbing: I did some corresponding from Yosemite (where I lived for the most part of 10 years). I wanted to get out (of Yosemite) without settling for a reduction in lifestyle.

Favorite issue: The one with the late Seth Shaw on the cover (he’s free climbing Moonlight buttress). I think this issue won an award.

Favorite department: Editorial, gallery.

Best and worst part about living in Carbondale: Best: I can climb nearly everyday, skate to work, swim laps in the hot springs, and it’s got that small town feel (which I’m used to from my days in Yosemite). Worst: It gets way cold in the winter – but I’m sure I’ll get used to it.

How do you spend time in the spring: Hitting all the different climbing areas I can before they get to hot.

Summer: Training, going to Rifle.

Fall: Can’t wait to take my vacation to Yosemite.

Winter: Maybe I should get a pass to one of the mountains. My Mixed/ice climbing skills could use some improvement too. Luckily, John Connor has agreed to go out with me anytime (he’s finally gotten over the time I dropped my axe on his head).

10 years ago: I lived in tent #57 in Boystown (located in Curry Village) Yosemite, (with a bunch of derelicts that I let stay at my place).

In 10 years: I’ll have a couple kids (I thought I would never say that), climb 5.14, and be a patient, compassionate adult (and hopefully not hit a glass ceiling with my career).

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.