Hampi, India Drew Us In ..."It had been two years since I was last in Hampi, India and things have taken a good turn for the climbers now. The industrious minds at Goan Corner (and by the time you read this, doubtless many more will catch on) have finally started to stock REAL climbing chalk (through Wildcraft in Bangalore) rather than trying to pass off talcum powder as the real thing. They've also replenished their rental crash pad supply with 30 some-odd NEW pads rather than the mangey leftovers from climbers past." —Kaare Iverson
Free Range Turkey - Dispatch 7Samarai warrior? Ninja assassin? Bruce Lee? No, it's Yuji Hirayama! In dispatch 7, we discover his personal philosophy for life and climbing as he floats up some of the world's most difficult rock climbs (Devers Royal (8c+) – hardest climb in Turkey!). Petzl All Access DVD TrailerThe Petzl All Access DVD contains ten amazing short climbing films. One hundred percent of the proceeds from the sale of All Access goes to the Access Fund and their revolutionary Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign, a multi-million-dollar revolving fund that helps local climbing organizations secure access.BD Athlete Alex Honnold in Tuolumne MeadowsVideo by Kevin Jaramillo - Black Diamond and The North Face athlete Alex Honnold was filmed making an ascent of the knob-peppered Clash of the Titans (5.13a) in Tuolumne Meadows, California, by Kevin Jaramillo (as part of Jaramillo's current film project). This is a high quality clip that provides some great insight into Honnold's life philosophy, as well as shows how cryptic 5.13 knob pimping is. Learn more about Alex Honnold here.Steve McClure's Massive Malham Link-upVideo by Posing Prodcutions - The UK's top sport climber Steve McClure takes on the "longest route I've ever done," taking the best bits from three routes at Malham Cove, Yorkshire. I've kept the clip long so you can get a feel for how much climbing there is and Steve's amazing endurance. Available as a free HD download here.Free Range Turkey - Dispatch 6Yesterday the crew explored a totally different venue and resource off the coast of Olympus, the deep water soloing! We are continually blown away by the culture & climbing potential here in southern Turkey. The InsidersVideo by Big UP Productions - Big UP Productions just launched a new short film on YouTube called The Insiders, which is all about indoor climbing, and features Paul Robinson, Sasha DiGiulian, Vasya Vorotnikov, and Ashima Shiraishi. They shot it in three days at Central Rock Gym in Worcester, MA, with the support of Rockwerx, who built the facility, and prAna. All the holds are from Teknik and e-grips, and master routesetter Chris Danielson did a great job crafting showpiece routes and boulder problems for each of the climbers. For more about the climbers, visit Big UP's blog.
Wrangle in the Triangle Bouldering CompetitionIt’s back, it’s bigger, and you must be there! On June 19th, Triangle Rock Club will be hosting the 3rd annual “Wrangle in the Triangle” Indoor Climbing Competition. With thousands of dollars in prizes and fun festivities planned throughout the day, we are looking forward to a rock’n good time. This year’s Wrangle will be a bouldering redpoint format with routes from V0 to V-Crazy. Climbers can register under youth, beginner, intermediate, and advanced categories. Come on out for the Triangle’s greatest indoor climbing competition.
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Buoux: Revisiting France's Crag of the 1980sOnce upon a time in Europe — and perhaps this is still true today — the most gifted climbers battled for one crown: to climb a route that no other could repeat. In that age of dreaming, beginning in the early 1980s, the rules that had defined the sport were cast happily and carelessly to the wind. No longer was a climber required to lower after each failed attempt, or to only install fixed protection from the ground up.Heidi AlmightySUMMER 2006: Heidi Wirtz scanned the south face of the Ogre’s Thumb, searching for unclimbed lines up the 3,000-foot granite wall above. She stood awestruck on Pakistan’s Biafo Glacier, surrounded by the wild peaks of the Karakoram, imagining each pitch …till a scream shattered the stillness. It was Lizzy Scully, her close friend and climbing partner. Once Upon a ClimbOnce upon a time, in a land far, far away (OK, Alberta, Canada), a young man stumbled upon an unclimbed wall in a mountain forest. Dotted by 12 silver bolts, it looked like a fine bit of rock scaling, and so with great curiosity, the lad scrambled around and rappelled down.
Dallas Rocks SCS Comp 2010Photos by Joshua King - Over 100 competitors filled Dallas Rocks on Saturday, April 17, in Dallas, Texas. The gym, known primarily for its bouldering, is the smallest SCS venue for the Texas/Louisiana region and had the biggest turnout for any local competition of the season. Many familiar faces were seen, with representatives from Carrollton's Team Texas, Houston's Stone Moves, Austin's Team ARG and Dallas Rocks' own Southern Rocks. For full results, click here.Joe's Valley 2010Photos by Cole Benoit - An early spring trip to the sandstone mecca of Utah bouldering, Joe's Valley seemed a necessity as the spring conditions back home in Squamish generally yield some seriously soggy climbing. Lured by the tales of fantastic problems, stellar friction, and good weather, Derek Runions and I headed south on an epic road trip where we met up with fellow Evolv climbers and our guides for the trip, Paul Nadler and Kendra Lloyd-Knox. The Road Less TraveledPhotos by Mel Sweet and Devin Hess / Unbound Exposure - As I viewed the sun rising over Owens Valley for the first time, I knew I would never be the same. The Eastern Sierras captured my heart as they have so many before. Devin and I started out in the classics climbing Owens River Gorge and the Buttermilks. From the Alabama Hills to the Druid Stones, climbing gear routes in the Buttermilks to a quiet day in the Happys, from exhausting your body to recovering in hot springs, the Eastern Sierras have so much more to offer for those who are willing to wander off course.
Tech Tips: Rope Work - Tangled Up in BlueBy Bennett Barthelemy - Rope-work for leaders 101 - “Damn it — I know what I'm doing, Bennett!” shouted my partner, Cedar Wright. “Uh, OK, Cedar, but you’re still kinda tangled up in the . . . never mind,” I said. I watched as Cedar — as solid on cracks as the day is long — ran out a sandy 5.10 offwidth in Canyonlands, the rope twisted around his leg. Even as I hoped for the best, I pictured the worst.
ARI Upgraded Route Master list549 Routes UPGRADED - MASTER LIST Updated 2/1/12 - More than 1,000 bolts have been replaced on selected high-traffic routes at major crags across the country. The anchor work receiving Climbing's ARI treatment was performed by some of the climbing community's most experienced equippers. The ARI makes a concerted effort to enlist the help of the most qualified and capable people by requiring references to assure volunteers' experience and representation of their respective climbing community's best wishes.