Cover - Access - Climbing Magazine

Cover - Access

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AccessAwareness is the first step to continue accessibility to our most treasured climbing areas. To learn more, visit the Access Fund, the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment.

Sustained: Lawyers, Guns, and MoneyIn the West, the vast majority of rock-climbing areas sit on public property: BLM, national forest, or state or national park lands. Such is not the case in the East. Private lands predominate. Large portions of the eastern states are rural, even wild, but generally this land is privately held, the “back 40” of small farms, cabins, trophy homes, and family homesteads. Throughout the East, private landowners are often willing to let climbers use the cliffs on their lands. Carolina Climbers' Coalition - Rumbling Bald ProjectCarolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) started off the new year by closing on the acquisition of Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders on January 6, 2010. The CCC and the Access Fund worked together to finalize the purchase of this popular bouldering area from a private developer and now it's time to raise funds and pay off the loan. If you've ever climbed at Rumbling Bald, if you ever plan to, or even if you never plan to, you can support our efforts and help us get the loans repaid!Carolina Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund Set to Purchase Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders in North CarolinaThe Carolina Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund announced today the intent to purchase and conserve the Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders in North Carolina. The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, will provide a bridge loan of $72,000 from the new Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign to finance 90% of the purchase price for the 6.12 acre tract that is currently under contract by the Carolina Climbers Coalition.To All climbers who know and love Yosemite National ParkBy Jesse McGahey / www.nps.gov - I realize that many of you are probably rolling your eyes at this point about the planning process in Yosemite and the federal government in general, but being actively vocal and involved with this process is your best way of changing the things you don't like about Yosemite and keeping the aspects you love. Yosemite National Park is revisiting the Merced River Plan after two previous plans resulted in litigation. Help Reopen Williamson RockSince 2004, the Angeles National Forest has banned climbing at Williamson Rock due to conflicts with critical habitat of the endangered Mountain Yellow Legged Frog. Now, after much work by the Friends of Williamson Rock and the Access Fund urging the Angeles National Forest to study alternate approach trails to Williamson, the Forest Service has issued a proposal that would reopen many of Williamson’s climbs while also protecting sensitive wildlife habitat.Access Fund Announces Third Round Grant Recipients for 2009In the third round of the Climbing Preservation Grant Program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $11,500 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment. Presented three times annually, the Climbing Preservation Grants program provides financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment in the United States.Southeastern Climbers Coalition Closes on SteeleOn Friday, September 4th, 2009, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) closed on a 25 acre tract and cliffline in Steele, Alabama for a purchase price of $55,000. The crag has been off limits to climbers for over twenty years after a dispute with a private landowner. The 25 acre tract is now climber owned and managed and will be preserved for future generations to enjoy.Access Fund Announces Multi-million Dollar Revolving Loan ProgramThe Access Fund announces the launch of a new campaign to save endangered climbing areas — the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign (AFLCC). The AFLCC is a multimillion-dollar revolving loan program designed to provide local climbing organizations and other agencies with the funds and expertise needed to act quickly to save threatened climbing areas.Access Fund Announces New Advocacy ToolThe Access Fund announced today the launch of a new online grassroots advocacy tool that makes it easier and faster for activists to help influence public policy that affects climbing access. While "action alerts" are nothing new to Access Fund supporters, the days of drafting their own letters, cutting and pasting drafted letters, and digging around to find the correct decision makers are over.Access Fund's Second Round of 2009 Grant RecipientsIn the second round of the Climbing Preservation Grants program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $12,000 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment. Presented three times annually, the Climbing Preservation Grants program provides financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment in the United States.Access Fund signs MOU with National Park ServiceThe Access Fund announces today that, after six years of collaborative negotiations, it has finalized and signed a memorandum of understanding (MOU) with the National Park Service (NPS). The newly signed MOU frames a cooperative relationship between the climbing community and the National Park Service. It outlines the common interests that the parties share - such as conservation and planning - as well as how they will work together to reach common goals.Access Fund and Washington Climbers Coalition Secure an Option to Purchase Lower Index Town Wall in WashingtonThe Access Fund announced today (May 26, 2009) that an option agreement to purchase the 20-acre private inholding at the Lower Index Town Walls of Snohomish County, Washington has been secured. This popular rock climbing area boasts several hundred quality granite climbing routes and is only an hour drive from Seattle.Rock Fall at North Table Mountain, Golden, ColoradoPat Adams of Boulder Colorado noticed on Saturday, May 16th 2009, that the top twenty feet of Elephantiasis (5.13), a popular route at the Quarry Wall, has fallen off taking two bolts and the anchor with it. Adams, who works at the University of Colorado, said in an email "I am glad no one was injured but there could be more to come."ACCESS PAN AMERICA TO BE FIRST EVER HEMISPHERIC-WIDE ACCESS MEETINGSQUAMISH, BRITISH COLUMBIA, AUGUST 12-16, 2009 - Access Pan America (accesspanamerica.com) will bring together activists from all the Americas to create the only organization dedicated exclusively to protecting climber access in the Western Hemisphere. The meetings are open, all climbers are welcome and urged to participate.Preserve Rock Canyon, UtahRock Canyon, adjacent to Provo, is under SERIOUS THREAT of being ruined by a mining operation. Locals as well as people from afar are inspired by its beauty and value the multitude of natural resources for hikers, climbers, bikers and those interested in geology, wildlife, and other nature interests. Please visit: preserverockcanyon.com for more informationHelp Reopen Williamson Rock to ClimbingWilliamson Rock is located at the 7000ft elevation in the Angeles National Forest, one hour North of Los Angeles on Highway 2. It is a natural outcrop with more than 300 sport routes on a group of granite formations. The setting is pristine wilderness near a stream surrounded by pines and beautiful views.Telluride Colorado's Bridal Veil Falls Re-Opened to ClimbingStanding 365 feet over Telluride's Box Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado's tallest free falling waterfall, and some would argue, one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the country. And it has been closed to climbing for the better part of a few decades, with the exception of a few brief openings.Climbing Areas in Utah Still Threatened By Oil and Gas Leases12/02/08 - Several climbing areas are on the auction block and your comments are needed to protect against new roads, large truck traffic, and industrial activity and infrastructure at climbing areas in Tusher Canyon, Courthouse Pasture, and Hell Roaring Canyon north of Moab.Looking Glass Outfitters Helps Complete Purchase of Laurel KnobLooking Glass Outfitters, western North Carolina’s renowned climbing-specialty outdoor store, raised over $1600 for the Carolina Climbers Coalition to help finalize their purchase of Laurel Knob.STASH... OR TRASH?Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) since the mid-1990s, has witnessed a hard-bouldering explosion, with unprecedented numbers of double-digit problems going up. Beginning in 2002, Evans, too, has seen a bouldering boom. With their delicate, high-alpine tundra, both areas (as bouldering venues) face similar impact issues, including litter, soil erosion and compaction, and social trails. But today, the biggest hot-button issue seems to be pad stashing.COLORADO COMPROMISE - Developers sacrifice 25 routes to save 20FOR A TOWN OF 6,000 PEOPLE, Carbondale, Colorado, nestled at the foot of Mount Sopris and hard by the confl uence of the Crystal and Roaring Fork rivers, has a high concentration of climbers. Its proximity to Rifle Mountain Park (50 minutes) and a goodly bit of alpine and ice climbing, as well as its onetime status as home to two major climbing publications, has drawn a disproportionate number of rock jocks.The Niagara Glen needs your help!9/22/08 - The Niagara Parks Commission has recently released a draft of their Land Management Plan on their website which has a recommendation to eliminate bouldering in the future to reduce environmental impact.Austria's Zillertal at Risk8/29/08 - Just weeks after Petzl's RocTrip (July 23-27, 2008) it was announced that the alpine jewel of Austria is to be destroyed and used for construction materials.YOU DOWN WITH BPA?TYPICALLY AN ENVIRONMENTALLY MINDED GROUP, we climbershave long been ahead of the curve when it comes to reducing plasticand other waste — and have made a huge step by drinking from mostlyreusable polycarbonate water bottles (i.e., the iconic Nalgene sippers).And though said bottles are good for the environment, reducing wasteand encouraging us to use clean, cheap tap water (visit tappening.com),it seems they might not be so great for our health.Climbers Letters Needed to Help Open Minnewaska State Park to Climbing7/15/08 - Minnewaska State Park, which hosts numerous 50 foot crags on 200 foot quartzite cliffs – part of the greater Shawangunk Ridge (the Gunks) – is revising its Master Plan and potentially significantly expanding climbing opportunities in the Shawangunk region.

Petzl and Utah Open Lands to Present at Land Trust Alliance's Annual Southwest Land Trust Conference5/13/08 - Speakers to Share Best Practices in Creating Alliances Between Business and Non-Profits - Petzl, a leading manufacturer of hands-free lighting™ and technical climbing gear, and Utah Open Lands (UOL), a non-profit land trust conservation association, are once again joining forces at this year’s Southwest Land Trust Conference to be held in Park City, Utah.PETZL ROC TRIP AND RRGCC ROCKTOBERFEST BRING IN OVER $30,000 TO PRESERVE RECREATIONAL ACCESS10/23/07 - By joining forces in the Red River Gorge for this year’s annual Rocktoberfest fundraiser and climber’s festival, Petzl and the RRGCC raised over $32,000, more than tripling the initial goal of raising up to $10,000 for the RRGCC, and rendering a ten-fold increase over the event’s earnings in 2006.ACCESS TO HYALITE CANYON ICE CLIMBING IS IN DANGER!1/05/07 - The new Gallatin National Forest travel plan severely threatens access to the world-class ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Montana. Any climbers interested in this area can help by taking the short, secure survey posted on www.hyalitecanyon.com.Roaring Fork Climbers' Coalition Seeks to Promote and Preserve Climbing in Western Colorado11/10/06 - In the last couple of years, climbers in the Roaring Fork Valley of Colorado have taken to developing the various crags that surround the area, though the history of rock climbing here goes back at least 40 years, and longer on the high peaks.Fundraiser for New NY Bouldering Area5/16/06 - We are having an event in the Gunks on May 27 to raise funds to help with the efforts to open The Waterworks, a great new bouldering area.New Jersey Action Alert5/3/06 - Climbers' input is needed to insure that climbing is listed as an official activity of the North Jersey Highlands.There is Still Time to Prevent the Sale of Climbing Areas on Public Forest Service Land5/3/06 - The Bush administration is proposing the sale of 200,000 acres out of 304,000 acres of eligible public National Forest land in 31 states to fund a law requiring the government help pay for school and public services in rural parts of the country. Take 5 Minutes to Call Congress and Help Save Climbing on the City of Rocks’ Twin Sisters, ID5/3/06 - Climbers are being cut out of City of Rocks’ Climbing Management Plan (CMP) revision and your voice is needed to call Congress urging a more reasonable National Park Service (NPS) management alternative that eases the absolute climbing ban on the Twin Sisters.Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grants8/25/05 - The Access Fund has awarded $25,757 in its second round of grant funding for 2005 bringing total for the year to $68,757 across 15 grants. Access Fund Urges Action at Oak Flat7/01/05 - Boulder, CO, June 22, 2005 - On May 25, 2005, Arizona’s Senator Kyl and Congressman Renzi introduced identical land exchange bills into Congress. According to the Access Fund this moves Resolution Copper Company (RCC) one step closer to destroying the publicly-owned Oak Flat area East of Phoenix.Judge Upholds Cave Rock Ban2/10/05 - A federal judge has rejected an Access Fund lawsuit that sought to overturn a Forest Service ban of climbing at Cave Rock, Nevada.Judge rules against Access Fund Suit in Response to Unlawful Climbing Ban at Cave Rock2/04/05 - On Friday January 28, 2005 a Federal judge ruled against the Access Fund's lawsuit that requested the courts overturn the United States Forest Services ruling banning climbing at Cave Rock.Improvements at Hueco TanksPerception is a strange thing. Depending on how you look at it, the current state of bouldering access in Hueco Tanks varies considerably. Before you hit the road for Hueco, you should probably ask yourself: Is the glass half empty or half full?Indian Creek Environmental Assessment8/09/04 - The unsigned Finding of No Significant Impact (FONSI) and the EA #UT – 090-00-47 for the Indian Creek Corridor Plan and Environmental Assessment are available for public review and comment for 30 days beginning on August 2, 2004.Fixed Anchor Ban Proposed for Tahquitz Rock7/27/04 - No studies have ever been made by the Forest Service to determine whether there is any justification or need for the proposed ban. Neither has the Forest Service examined the likely consequences from such a drastic policy change.Access Fund to File Suit in Response to Unlawful Climbing Ban at Cave Rock11/13/03 - In response to the recent decision by the US Forest Service (USFS) to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, the Access Fund announced today that it will file a lawsuit requesting the courts overturn the USFS ruling.Cave Rock Access Alert11/10/03 - The US Forest Service has rejected the Access Fund’s appeal of its decision to shut down climbing at Lake Tahoe’s Cave Rock.Climbers banned from Nevada sport crag8/7/03 -Nevada’s Cave Rock climbing area, home to such classic sport routes as Undertow and Slayer, is now closed, following a Record of Decision (ROD) reached by the US Forest Service Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit in July.

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