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Downtown Fort Collins celebrates 4th of July6/16/10 – This holiday celebrates America’s independence, and what better place to do that than in historic Downtown Fort Collins?Passage of wildlife crossing zones bill promises safer roads for Colorado drivers and wildlife6/15/10 – Governor Ritter signed HB 1238, Wildlife Crossing Zones Traffic Safety Bill, into law in Vail, Colorado, on June 10, 2010.New 2010 Colorado Brewers’ Festival6/15/10 – All of the Colorado beers are coming to town this June, and beer lovers nationwide will descend on Downtown Fort Collins for the 21st annual Colorado Brewers’ Festival. Winter Park-Fraser Valley Announce 2010 Mountain Bike Races, Events6/15/10 – Winter Park and the Fraser Valley, known as “Mountain Bike Capital USAT,” will host nearly 20 races and festivals this summer for mountain bike enthusiasts.The summer’s HOT with events in Downtown Fort CollinsDowntown Fort Collins is gearing up for a very busy summer. The Downtown Business Association (DBA) is planning the 21st annual Colorado Brewers’ Festival, scheduling bands for Old Town Square and preparing for a fabulous Bohemian Night at NewWestFest. This summer, the DBA and Downtown Fort Collins events will host over 125 music groups, over 20 dance troupes, children’s performers and much more.World’s Largest Urban Adventure Race Comes to DenverExperience more of your city in 6 hours than most do all summer! The T-Mobile City Chase presented by BlackBerry is part of the World’s Largest Urban Adventure Series, an event filled with local challenges that force participants to push themselves mentally and physically as they truly get a crash course on all their city has to offer.Mountain Khakis Presents the 2010 “MOG” Outdoor Gear Sale & COPMOBA Bike SwapMountain Khakis, a premier outdoor-lifestyle apparel brand “Built for the Mountain Life”, proudly announces their title sponsorship of the 2010 MOG Outdoor Gear Sale & COPMOBA Bike Swap in Grand Junction, Colorado to be held on Saturday, April 10th, 2010. It will be the largest grassroots outdoor gear sale and bike swap between Denver and Salt Lake City. Visit: www.mogoutdoorfest.comA Strange Occurrence on Mount ZirkelBy Richard F. Fleck – As close to Wyoming as could be,I rambled through the Park Rangeforests at the base of Mount Zirkeland began to climb some rocky ledgesuntil the pines began to thin and I pausedto stare into the limitless rolling plains ofthe big North Park fringed with snowyNever Summer peaks to the cloudy east.2010 Durango Independent Film FestivalThe Durango Independent Film Festival will be held in downtown Durango from Wednesday, March 3rd through Sunday, March 7th, 2010. Dinner and Film Festival packages are on sale now through the end of February and can be purchased at participating restaurants or at the Film Festival office. Visit durangofilm.org for more infoThe Secret’s OutThe first-ever guidebook to Colorado’s best-kept secret, Durango Bouldering ($25, pineneedle.com), details more than 350 V0-to-V13s at five superb areas, including Sailing Hawks aka The Secret Spot and the recently discovered 071 Boulders. Southwest Adventures guide Ian Allison spent four years searching, sending, and documenting. Hagues Peak – A Case of Altitude SicknessBy Richard F. Fleck – Only twice in fifty years have I come downwith altitude sickness, once in the Wind Riversand once here on the flanks of Hagues PeakA bit after we peered far down to Crystal Lakeand a little before our final scrambleup the last three hundred feet. Perhaps I hadn’teaten quite enough at breakfast or perhaps itwas coming across a dead Clark’s Nutcrackerflat on a rock, but my head began to pound …New Route Likely South Platte’s Hardest2/15/10 – Jason Haas has completed the hardest pitch in Colorado’s South Platte area, a roof seam that’s protected with removable pro and might be 5.14a.Vail Resorts Launches Web Site LindseyisEpic.com2/12/10 – Vail Resorts has launched a new web site LindseyisEpic.com which gives ski racing fans an in-depth, behind-the-scenes account of Lindsey Vonn, the world’s fastest female skier and Vail, Colorado’s hometown hero. A Snowy Night in Northern MontanaBy Richard F. Fleck – On a very snowy night camped at MacDonald Lake,we shiver in our sagging tent as winds snap aspenbranches overhead and we wonder just why we choseearly June and not July to camp in Glacier Park whereearly summer is nothing more than a late-winter.The Disciples of Gill – Bouldering Film Retrospective at Neptune MountaineeringA presentation brought to you by Pat Ament on January 28 at 7 p.m. – In the 1960’s there was a small sub-culture of climbers who went against the traditional mountaineering mentality. Headed by John Gill, a few climbers devoted themselves to bouldering and turned it into a kind of gymnastic art. Pat Ament’s film tells the story of those beginnings, that golden age of bouldering, yet in a tender, nostalgic way.Three Front Range HaikuBy Richard F. Fleck – Twin Sisters – Through golden aspenWe climb to top to see highGray block of Longs Peak.Squaw Peak – Winding past lodgepoles,We quickly ascend loose slabsTo summit in space. Devil’s Head – We slip on dark iceIn slanting woods until stepsTake us up highest ridge.A Night in Venice1/22/10 – The Durango Independent Film Festival and Costume Emporium announce A Night in Venice, a romantic evening for couples and singles alike, Sunday February 14th, 2010!Eldo OpusMasterpieces arrive fully realized, the creator’s toil invisible in the final product. Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, now has its masterpiece with Steve Levin’s intuitive, exhaustive, 450-page Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide ($39.95, sharpendbooks.com). (See Players, of Climbing No. 281 – December 2009, p.26, for more on Levin.) This first-ever photo-topo guide comes stacked with action photos.Adaptive High Adventure Weekend: Ice Climb and SkiExperience two of winter’s most thrilling outdoor adventure activities in one long weekend: downhill skiing and ice climbing! We’ll take to the slopes for two days of one-on-one ski instruction at Crested Butte Mountain Resort followed by two days of guided ice climbing in the San Juan Mountains on January 14-17, 2010.Colorado Chosen as Site to Showcase Wildlife Crossing Designs of the Future12/28/09 – As a gift during this holiday season, West Vail Pass, Colorado, along Interstate 70, has been chosen as the official site for the first-ever North American Wildlife Crossing Structure Design Competition entitled ARC.Hundreds Expected at 12/19 Medical Marijuana “Stakeholder” Meeting12/18/09 – On Saturday, December 19, 2009, the state’s leading medical marijuana advocacy group, Sensible Colorado, will host a community “Stakeholder” meeting at the University of Denver Law School.Crestone Artists’ Studio Tour and Sale – December 5th and 6th from 1-6 pmMore than twenty of Crestone’s most talented artists open their studios at the base of the scenic Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Each location offers an intimate experience in art, gifts, food and conversations with the artists. Start planning now for one of the most beloved local events of the year. Follow the flags to each studio for fine art gifts and refreshments. This event is free to the public. Visit www.crestonestudiotour.comLake Dillon Art Center – Grand Re-Opening11/20/09 – Lake Dillon Art Center (LDAC) is excited to announce its grand re-opening in a new Dillon Town Center location. The opening is set for Friday, Nov. 20, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. LDAC is at 115 Village Place, inside the old Little Brown Drugstore building, just down from Pug Ryan’s.Fifth Annual Adventure Film FestivalOn November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Visit: www.adventurefilm.orgColorado Town Legalizes Marijuana11/10/09 – On Nov. 3, 2009, the high-profile Colorado tourist destination of Breckenridge voted by a margin of 73% to 27% (with 96% of precincts reporting) to legalize the adult possession of marijuana.
Samsara and Pra Caramba Trailers – 2009 Adventure Film FestivalVideos by Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright courtesy of BlueWaterRopes Blogspot.com to premiere at the Adventure Film Festival in Boulder, Colorado – On November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Renan Ozturk’s “Samsara” and Cedar Wright’s “Pra Caramba” will both premiere at this year’s festival.2009 PSYCHEDELIA at The Spot GymPhotos by Adam Bove / adambove.carbonmade.com – The craziest, most unique and bizarre climbing event of the year went down on Saturday, October 24th, at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado. Event number two of the fifth annual PSYCHEDELIA is more than just a bouldering comp it’s a black-light, dance around, pre-halloween, climb-for-all rave, with a costume contest and creative finals problems on glow-in-the-dark holds, complete with awesome raffles, free food from Wahoo’s Fish Tacos as well as free beer from Avery Brewing Company. Don’t miss next year! For more info visit: TheSpotGym.comThree Springs Fall Festival Is This Year’s Halloween Place to Be Saturday, October 31st from 11am- 2pm at Three Springs Plaza in Durango, Colorado10/29/09 – In its third year, the Three Springs Fall Festival has new events this year including door to door trick or treating, a coloring contest and Monster Mash Run.Colorado Town Prepares for Legalization Vote10/27/09 – As state and national focus grows on marijuana reform, a high-profile Colorado tourist destination, Breckenridge, prepares to vote to remove criminal penalties for adult marijuana possession. Girls Education International to auction off rock stars at annual fundraising eventHave you ever wanted to climb with one of the hard men or women you see in the pages of the mags? At Girls Education International’s annual Beats for Books fundraising event at The Spot Gym on Tuesday, October 27, you can bid in a live auction to climb with rock stars Madaleine Sorkin, Kelly Cordes or Alex Honnold.2009 Psychedelia at the Spot Gym The Fifth Annual Spot Bouldering Series Comp #2 is October 24th, 2009! Psychedelia is THE black-light climbing comp for the Halloween season. Youth Comp 1pm-4pm; Adult Comp 5pm-8pm. (Spot will be closed Thursday the 22nd and Friday the 23rd for setting). $25 for entry (includes bouldering comp, raffle ticket, Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, and Avery beer for those 21+) or get the remaining season pass for $70.2009 Boulder Climbing SeriesThe Boulder Climbing Series is a monthly series of friendly, low-key climbing competitions. Unlike most other events in Colorado, the BCS will be a top-rope and lead climbing series, rather than bouldering. The Boulder Climbing Series is open to climbers of all ages and abilities, and will be held the third Friday of every month (October-February) from 5:30-9pm at the Boulder Rock Club (2829 Mapleton). Sender Films Exclusive Premiere at Movement Climbing + FitnessMovement and Sender Films are partnering to bring you an EXCLUSIVE PREMIERE ON OCTOBER 10th of 2 of their Nat Geo Adventure Series! Catch it here because it’s the only place in the US to see them! Ever Committed to Community, we have planned a great day starting with a car wash fundraiser, a BBQ, and then the films…. and it’s ALL FREE!Durango Indpendent Film Festival Announces 2010 Festival10/06/09 – The Durango Independent Film Festival (DIFF) has officially launched the promotional efforts for the 2010 Film Festival.CMC’s Wilderness Trekking SchoolThe Wilderness Trekking School is a comprehensive course on hiking in the Colorado mountains; on- and off-trail, map & compass, nutrition, gear, weather, handling an emergency, and more. Classes start Tuesday, September 15, 6:30-9:30 pm at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado. Registration for the Fall 2009 session is now open.9th Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASHThe 9th Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASH will be happening on Wednesday, September 9th, 2009, and you know it will be raining booty. So mark your calendar, recruit/brainwash some friends, and head up to the Summit to pick up trash, eat dinner, drink beverages, and walk away with the goods.2009 Mountain Summit in Aspen, COMountain Summit is a slimmed down version of the four day Mountainfilm in Telluride festival that will be held August 27-30, 2009 in Aspen, Colorado at the Wheeler Opera House. This year both Jim Whittaker and Ed Viesturs will be there, in person.2009 RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK CLEAN UP DAYSATURDAY AUGUST 22, 2009 – Please volunteer and give some love back to the park we love. Bring work gloves and any tools and materials you may have: shovels, prybars, buckets, rebar, lumber and sledgehammers. Party at the Community House with food, beer, music, and prize giving to follow. Voluntary donations. All funds go to hardware replacement.Craig Luebben Killed in North Cascades8/11/09 – Craig Luebben, the well-known Colorado climber, guide, teacher, and author, was killed early Sunday morning when glacial ice collapsed on Mt. Torment in North Cascades National Park. (Updated – 8/13/09) The Colorado Peace RideThe Four Corners area of Southwest Colorado is buzzing with the news of an awesome new bicycle tour that is gearing up to be one of the country’s most desirable cycling events. This summer Durango will welcome 500 riders and countless supporters for the start of the first annual Colorado Peace Ride, taking place Aug. 9-12, 2009.It’s Official: Breckenridge to Vote to Legalize Marijuana8/04/09 – On July 24, 2009, the Breckenridge Town Clerk certified that a petition, as submitted by the local reform group “Sensible Breckenridge”, had enough valid signatures to place the measure on the November 2009 ballot.Anchor Replacement in Eldorado Canyon, ColoradoOn Friday, July 31, 2009, I went with Madaleine Sorkin to help her finish up the bolt-replacement work on the vintage sport route Hairstyles and Attitudes (aka Space Invaders II), a Dan Michael and Roger Briggs 1980s classic on the top headwall of the Bastille, Eldorado Canyon. I’ve never had a chance to do the route, but Madaleine said it was her favorite sport route in Eldorado, which is why she’d “adopted” it for the bolt work. If you haven’t seen the line, it climbs a flat, slightly overhanging panel of rock left of Outer Space, in a wild, exposed position that finishes a good 300 feet above the ground. This also makes it a bit of a pain to get to and for doing bolt work.Abbey Smith Joins Marmot’s Global Athlete Team7/29/09 – Climber, writer and adventurer, Abbey Smith is the most recent addition to Marmot’s global athlete team.Anchor Replacement in Bear Canyon, Boulder Colorado – July 2009Report and photos by Kevin Riley and Matt Samet – On July 15, Matt Samet and I trudged up to the back of Bear Canyon to upgrade three sport climbs. The first two routes we replaced were Megasaurus (5.10d) and Liquid Crystal (5.11c), in the Bedrock area, aka the South Ridge. The last route we maintained was a spicy 5.9+ R route called Thought Control at the Stonehenge area. It’s also in Bear Canyon, right above the creekbed.Woods, Johnson Win Major Bouldering Comp7/24/09 – Daniel Woods and Alex Johnson won the Mammut Bouldering Championship in Salt Lake City. 3rd Annual HERA Climb4Life Colorado Raises Over $60,000 for Ovarian Cancer Research7/20/09 – The economy may be sluggish but 154 rock climbers and hikers recently proved that a wholehearted fundraising effort produces big results. Anchor Work in Colorado’s Flatirons – July 2009On July 11, I upgraded all 8 protection bolts and anchor bolts with Anchor Replacement Initiative hardware on the old-school 5.11d sport route Whipping Post, on the Slab, Fern Canyon, Flatirons, Colorado. The anchors now have stainless-steel ring-and-chain set-ups. All bolts are 1/2″ by 2.75″ stainless. Old bolts removed and holes camo’ed.Two from the Colorado High-CountryVideo by Chad Greedy / www.hardclimbs.com – Despite a stormy month of June, locals and visiting climbers alike made a super-strong start to the alpine bouldering season in Colorado. Among the granite boulders below Mt. Evans, Dave Graham nabbed the first ascent of Big Worm (V14), which was soon repeated by Chris Schulte and Paul Robinson. Finnish boulder Nalle Hukkataival stayed in Colorado for a couple of weeks after the World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games, and made the most of his time with the fourth ascent of Jade (V15), a new V13, and a couple of speedy V13 repeats. Early-Season Heat in High-Country Bouldering7/07/09 – Despite a stormy month of June, locals and visiting climbers alike made a super-strong start to the alpine bouldering season in Colorado.Louisiana’s Tab Benoit and Colorado’s own Johnny O. Band sing the blues July 3 at the Crystal Club alongside the Crystal River in RedstoneA Night of Colorado and Louisiana Blues: Tab Benoit and the Johnny O. Band – 5:30 p.m., July 3. This is the Redstone party you don’t want to miss – with local favorite Johnny O., and with Benoit, awarded Best Contemporary Blues Male Artist of the Year for 2007 from the Blues Music Awards, at the Crystal Club alongside the Crystal River in Redstone, $30/ppd. 970-963-9515 or 970-963-6355.
HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation Holds Third Annual Colorado Climb4LifeThe HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation will be holding its Third Annual Colorado Climb4Life in Friday, June 26 through Saturday, June 27, 2009. in Boulder. The event is hosted by REI Boulder, Colorado Mountain School and the Boulder Rock Club.Boys of the WoodJune 2009 – Castlewood Canyon, about two miles south of Franktown, Colo., isn’t exactly a rock-climbing Mecca. It is east of I-25, for one thing, which is practically Kansas to most climbers living in or visiting Colorado. The rock here isn’t the vertically seamed granite of Lumpy Ridge, or the 300-foot sandstone walls of Eldorado Canyon. Nobody’s driving cross-country to come climbing here.Tree Climbing in Fort CollinsJune 2009 – The willows of the Poudre River Trail are a great place to start. They often grow in tight groups and some of the older ones create a massive network of crossing trunks. Occasionally a branch will arch gradually back to the ground, allowing for one to walk across it and arrive at a different place on the ground from where they left.The Colorado Mountain Club’s Mountain Fest 2009Join us at Mountain Fest a celebration of the Colorado Mountain Club, the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization dedicated to recreation, conservation, and education on June 20th and 21st in Golden, Colorado. Designed for beginning to expert outdoor enthusiasts, this annual event is a weekend of exciting mountain activities, music, and more.PARTNERS ANNOUNCE OPENING OF LINCOLN-DEMOCRAT “14ER” TRAIL ACCESS IN PARK COUNTY6/18/09 – After four years of cooperative efforts, the Mosquito Range Heritage Initiative (MRHI), Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, private land owners, Town of Alma and the U.S. Forest Service-South Park District announce a conditional June 1 opening of the “14er” trail from Kite Lake to Mounts Lincoln and Democrat.Search Has Ended for Missing American Climber6/08/09 – It is with deep regret that the American team and Chinese authorities have ended the search for Micah Dash, the third missing climber, on June 12, 2009.Job Announcement: Spot Climbing School Program Director6/11/09 – Were looking for a charismatic & dynamic individual who has wants to continue to provide some of our same fantastic program offerings while bringing some fresh ideas and energy to the Boulder climbing community.Another American Climber’s Body Found in China6/08/09 – A second body has been found on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet), China, and is believed to be Wade Johnson, 24, of Boulder, CO.Colorado Climbers Late Home from China6/05/09 – Three Boulder, Colorado climbers—Jonathan Copp (age 35), Micah Dash (age 30), and Wade Johnson (age 24)—are overdue, having missed their flight on June 3 from Chengdu, China.Job Announcement: Spot Head Routesetter5/28/09 – Manage and deliver world class routes for all users in one of the world’s finest facilities. Provide routes for all of the climbing school’s needs, be a leader in the gym and climbing industry, and be accessible for members and setters to look to for inspiration and guidance.DKNY on the Colorado: (The Most Famous River Dress) May 2009 – This is the story of what happened to my pink neoprene river dress. I don’t want to have to explain in detail why a woman would wear a dress on the river in the first place: simply, some women wear dresses on the river. Some men wear skorts and paint their toenails on the river, too. A river dress is more comfortable than shorts, easier to go potty in and easier to yank off (should you need to yank your clothes off quickly).Leading the Charge: Colorado on Top of Whitewater Park TrendMay 2009 – It’s hard to improve upon Mother Nature in Colorado. But even with 54 Fourteeners and mountains of snowfall, the state is leading the charge in doing that in the unlikeliest of places: rivers. “Colorado is the definite leader of the whitewater park trend,” says Gary Lacy of Boulder’s Recreation Engineering and Planning Inc., which has designed the majority of such parks in the country.Anchor Upgrade at Puoux, Glenwood Canyon, ColoradoSpring 2009 – The always in season, roadside sport-crag – the Puoux – in Glenwood Canyon, got a major upgrade recently with efforts from Carbondale climber Michael Schneiter. The Long Haul, Urban Cowboy, Two Tone, Kor’s Corner, Hard Kor, Road Runner, and Roadside Attraction were carefully upgraded with brand new stainless steel hardware. It’s worth noting that Schneiter spent 10+ hours on just one of these routes because he was trying to reuse old holes as much as possible.Rock Fall at North Table Mountain, Golden, ColoradoPat Adams of Boulder Colorado noticed on Saturday, May 16th 2009, that the top twenty feet of Elephantiasis (5.13), a popular route at the Quarry Wall, has fallen off taking two bolts and the anchor with it. Adams, who works at the University of Colorado, said in an email “I am glad no one was injured but there could be more to come.”Rocky Mountain Highball – Colorado Premiere – RecapLast Monday, April 27th, 2009, was the first public screening of Rocky Mountain Highball. It was an incredible evening for all of us involved and for the Colorado bouldering community as a whole. The event nearly packed the Boulder Theater and brought together four generations of Colorado boulderers.Rocky Mountain Highball – Colorado Premiere – Photo GalleryPhotos by Dana Richardson and Cody Blair – Last Monday , April 27th, 2009, was the first screening of Rocky Mountain Highball. The event nearly packed the house and brought four generations of Colorado boulderers together. The pre-party at the B.Side Lounge provided a chance for people like Jim Holloway, Mark Wilford, John Sherman, and Steve Mammen to spend a few hours chatting with the new generation such as Paul Robinson, Jason Kehl, Kevin Jorgeson, and Matt Wilder. The American Alpine Club and Yama Studio are extremely pleased with how this landmark event was received. Read more.Rocky Mountain Highball – Colorado PremiereYama Studio, along with The American Alpine Club, request the pleasure of your company at the world premiere of Rocky Mountain Highball on April 27 at The Boulder Theater. “Rocky Mountain Highball” is a new climbing film that presents an in depth look into why some climbers push themselves to boulder at the vertical limit. Erik Weihenmayer and Chad Jukes on Bridal Veil Falls, near Telluride, ColoradoVideo by David D’Angelo / TrustforPublicLand – On February 12, 2009, blind climber Erik Weihenmayer scaled frozen Bridal Veil Falls near Telluride, Colorado, which Trust for Public Land (TPL) recently helped to reopen for climbing. Also on the climb was Chad Jukes, and Iraq war veteran who lost a leg to an explosive device. It was the blind athlete’s second climb celebrating TPL’s efforts to protect recreational access in Colorado and nationwide. For more information visit: tpl.org. Read more about this ascent in a story by Craig Stein.Montana Wolf in Colorado Now Has New Reason to Stay3/10/09 – Interior Secretary Ken Salazar today stripped gray wolves in the Northern Rocky Mountains of their legal protections under the Endangered Species Act.Job Announcement: The Spot Bouldering Gym seeks new head coach2/25/09 – Come live and play in Boulder, Colorado, the climbing capital of the USA. Teach and train at the nation’s premier bouldering facility.The Colorado Premiere of PureDon’t miss the PURE WORLD PREMIERE at The Boulder Theater this Friday, Feb 20th, 2009. Tickets can be pre-booked through The Boulder Theater, and if you’re in the Boulder area they are also for sale at The Spot boulder gym this week. From the producer of Dosage V – Alpine Blocs comes a 35mm bouldering flick about bouldering on planet Earth: PURE.Highballin’The Spot Gym Goes Off for Highball Comp – The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado, knows how to throw a good party, and on January 24th, 2009 they did just that. Their equation is this: take beautiful women and pair them with strong men, feed them free food and beer, give them a DJ, and throw them at some balls hard boulder problems. Click here to see more photos by Ryan Nadlonek from the competition.The Spot Gyms Highball CompPhotos by Ryan Nadlonek from “The Highball” on January 24th, 2009 – The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado, knows how to throw a good party. Their equation is this: take beautiful women and pair them with strong men, feed them free food and beer, give them a DJ, and throw them at some balls hard boulder problems. Plus, each competition has its own theme; they’ve featured paintball, sumo wrestling, and martial arts demonstrations in the past and for this event, they ran a slackline 20-feet in the air and tied in some of the area’s most balanced men and women for toproped highline highjinx. Read the event recap by Ryan Nadlonek.Colorado Ice Climbing January 2009 – I was reclining under a dark January sky as enormous snowflakes lighted on my face, feeling like a shower of tingling cold pinpoints. It was an excellent sensory contrast to the soothing hot water in which the rest of my body was submerged. The round wooden tub was fed directly from a natural hot spring behind the Box Canyon Lodge, and was positioned on a hill overlooking the mountain village of Ouray, Colorado.2009 Anchor Replacement in ColoradoAnchor replacement by Tod Anderson – Seizing an opportunity during the warm weather at the end of Januaury 2009 and before the bird closures take effect I fixed the anchor at the top of the first pitch on Electricity in Boulder Canyon Bitty Buttress. I was up on the route in November and the webbing was so manky that I wouldn’t even rap off of it. So, I grabbed what was available and made it a bit better at the time, which is what I was able to get the before photo of in the attachment. Now, all that is fixed with nice ARI hardware that will hold up for a long time. The bolts in place looked to be in pretty good condition to me, so I didn’t mess with those.
The Highball – Comp #3 – The Spot Bouldering Series – Season IVOn January 24th, 2009, get ready for the third bouldering competition in our Spot Bouldering Series. A “Highball” slackline set between our Font and Hueco boulders will be a special attraction after the Adult Comp.Real Colorado Ski HillsThe annual ‘Resort Roundup’ (published last year as “The Ski Bum’s Guide,” MG #137) is easily the most commercial piece of pandering that we publish in the Mountain Gazette. Designed in concert with our regular equipment column, Gear-O-Rama, it’s meant to stoke the fires of Rocky Mountain retail and fatten our magazine with ad pages galore.The Spot Gym: Night of the Rising Sun – 2008Photos by Justin Roth – On Saturday, December 6th, 2008, in Boulder Colorado, the second event in the Spot Bouldering Series “kicked off” with youth and adult bouldering comps followed by crashpad sumo wrestling, martial arts displays, zip lines, food, and fun for all ages. Visit thespotgym.com for more info. Fall 2008 Anchor Replacement in ColoradoPhotos of Matt Samet upgrading the hardware on The Perfect Kiss (5.11d), the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain, the Flatirons; Old and new anchor gear on the Eiffel Tower, Little Eiger, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado by Tod Anderson; and Paul Glover installing two ARI bolts and anchors atop Bidoigt (5.10a), Der Freischutz, Dinosaur Mountain, Flatirons, above Boulder.The Spot Gym’s Night of the Rising Sun – Season IVOn Saturday, December 6th, 2008, the second comp in the Spot Bouldering Series will sure to be a blast. Youth and Adult Bouldering Competitions followed by crashpad sumo wrestling, fun for all ages. All abilities welcome Recreational, Intermediate, Advanced, and Open divisions. Free food and drinks for competitors from Wahoos and Avery Brewing.Telluride Colorado’s Bridal Veil Falls Re-Opened to ClimbingStanding 365 feet over Telluride’s Box Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado’s tallest free falling waterfall, and some would argue, one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the country. And it has been closed to climbing for the better part of a few decades, with the exception of a few brief openings.PSYCHEDELIA at The SpotPhotos by Wade David – It’s more of a rave than a bouldering comp, but one things for sure it’s one big party! On Saturday, October 25th, The Spot Bouldering Gym Hosted its annual PSYCHEDELIA Bouldering Comp. Blacklights, costumes, ravin’ music, glow sticks and all kinds of other decorations make this THE crazieist party at the Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado. For more info visit: TheSpotGym.comPringle Sends Colorado Trad Testpieces10/27/08 – Ethan Benjamin Pringle, usually known for his hard sport and boulder ascents, has redpointed Boulder Canyon’s China Doll (5.14a) and Eldorado Canyon’s Iron Monkey (5.14a) this fall while in Colorado.Alex Puccio On Fire in Colorado10/22/08 – Alex Puccio has climbed two V12 boulder problems and a V11 in Colorado in the last week.Climber-run nonprofit to hold benefit dance party at the b Side Lounge in Boulder, ColoradoGirls Education International, a nonprofit organization founded by Heidi Wirtz and Lizzy Scully, will be hosting a late-night dance party fundraiser at the hippest new club on the Front Range, the b Side Lounge Restaurant in Boulder, Colorado on Thursday, October 9, from 9:30 p.m. to 1:45 a.m.COLORADO COMPROMISE – Developers sacrifice 25 routes to save 20FOR A TOWN OF 6,000 PEOPLE, Carbondale, Colorado, nestled at the foot of Mount Sopris and hard by the confl uence of the Crystal and Roaring Fork rivers, has a high concentration of climbers. Its proximity to Rifle Mountain Park (50 minutes) and a goodly bit of alpine and ice climbing, as well as its onetime status as home to two major climbing publications, has drawn a disproportionate number of rock jocks.It’s “Dojo” time in Boulder, ColoradoBy Mike Adamson / thespotgym.com – There comes a time in every gym rat’s life where you begin to crave more beyond the good ol’ walls you’ve come to know and love. Enter The Spot Bouldering Gym’s newest wall, the Dojo, unveiled September 5.Colorado Bouldering – RMNP and Mt. EvansPhotos by Emanuel Moosburger – On August 7th 2008 I started a four week trip to visit my friend Daniel Woods in Colorado for some summertime bouldering in Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans. Shown in this gallery are photos of Riddles in the Park and The Hobbit at Upper Chaos Canyon, The Automator and Tommy’s Arete in Lower Chaos Canyon, No More Greener Grass at Mt. Evans, some wildlife in the park, plus a few shots of the beatiful alpine landscape. Special thanks to Steve and Carol Woods!REEL ROCK Film Tour World Premiere – Boulder, Colorado – September 10th & 11thWednesday’s REEL ROCK premiere in Boulder is SOLD OUT! So we’ve added a second show the following day: Thurs, Sept 11, 7:00 at the Boulder Theater. Tickets available in advance at the Boulder Theater only. $12 Advance, $14 at the door. After Boulder, REEL ROCK continues on for over 80 shows across the U.S and world. CLICK HERE To Watch the Reel Rock Film Tour TrailerBack-to-Back V12s by Colorado Women8/29/08 – Alex Johnson and Alex Puccio each have climbed V12 boulder problems in the mountains of Colorado, the first two by women in the state.New High-Altitude 5.13 in Colorado7/08/08 – Rob Pizem has added a second 5.13 route to the P Wall, located at around 12,000 feet near Mt. Evans in the Colorado Front Range.Pent Up (5.12c) – Black Canyon of the Gunnison, ColoradoPhotos by Jason Nelson, Jack Jefferies and Cody Sims visualadventures.com On June 7, 2008 Jason Nelson, Jack Jeffries, and Cody Sims, put up Pent Up, (5.12c 700 feet), a new seven-pitch Black Canyon line. The climbs sits in the South Rim’s Chillumstone Gully to the climber’s left of Count Your Lily Pads (III 5.10 A2). Both routes share the same last pitch, originally aided on the FA of Lily Pads (John Kaandorp and Steve Demaio; 1983) due to rain wetting the route. READ MOREPent Up in the Black Canyon – New 5.12 Added to Colorado’s Somber Gorge6/16/08 – On June 7, Jason Nelson, Jack Jeffries, and Cody Sims, put up Pent Up, (5.12c 700 feet), a new seven-pitch Black Canyon line.Eco-Conscious Climbers Can Recycle Ropes During HERA Climb4Life Colorado at Sterling Ropes Recycle Center6/09/08 – Rock climbers in the Boulder and Denver area can recycle old climbing ropes, no longer trustworthy enough for use as a lifeline, at the 2nd Annual HERA Climb4Life Colorado.Eric’s Sister (V10) – Arkansas River, ColoradoVideo shot and editied by Bryan Johnson and Chris Gatzke. Colorado College student Hayden Miller styles the fourth ascent Eric’s Sister (V10), near the small town of Cotopaxi in Southern Colorado. Eric’s Sister is located on BLM land, has great access and Miller reports that there are hundreds of other boulders to be explored there.5Point Film Festival Debuts May 8-10, 2008 in Carbondale, ColoradoUnscripted and intimate in nature, the 5Point Film Festival debuts May 8-10, 2008 in Carbondale, Colorado, featuring a five-star roster of adventure films, special guests and programs to engage audiences and build passion with a conscience through the power of the moving image.Colorado Headpoint Gets Four Repeats4/23/08 – The trad-style/headpoint testpiece Must’a Been High (5.13c R), on the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, saw a record four ascents over a three-week period in late February, early March.2008 Colorado College Bouldering Series FinalOn May 5th the Sport Climbing Center in Colorado Springs is hosting the 2008 Colorado College Bouldering Series Final. Come on down and check it out. The facility has 13,000 sq. ft. of sculpted climbing surface for leading, toproping or bouldering and there are routes for all ages and abilities.A DUEL TO THE DEATH – The Spot Bouldering Series Season III FinalsIn a competition fit for the Coliseum, The Spot Bouldering Gym hosted the final bouldering comp of the season: The Gladiator Season Finals. The series, with previous events Psychedelia, Night of the Rising Sun, and The Gun Show, wrapped up on March 15, 2008. Click Here for PHOTOS OF THE EVENTThe Spot Bouldering Series Season III Finals GalleryPhotos courtesy of thespotgym.com – In a competition fit for the Coliseum, The Spot Bouldering Gym hosted the final bouldering comp of the season: The Gladiator Season Finals. The series, with previous events Psychedelia, Night of the Rising Sun, and The Gun Show, wrapped up on March 15, 2008. Climbers ranged in age from 7 to 40+ and competed in recreational, intermediate, advanced, and open categories. Chief Routesetter Justen Sjong said, “The competition went really well. We set about 45 problems and had about 90 competitors.” READ the RECAP by Andrea Sutherland
M14 Climbed Spur-Less in Colorado2/21/08 – Frenchman Jeff Mercier, who won the international competition at the Ouray Ice Festival in January, subsequently made a trip to the remote town of Lake City to attempt Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden’s Jedi Mind Tricks, a possible M14.Welcome to The Gun ShowBy Megan Parks – A Round Up of the Spot Gym’s Bouldering (and Paintball Comp), January 19, 2008 – Born and raised in Alabama, I’m all too familiar with gun shows. I’ve never actually attended one, but I have been caught in the crossfire …Night of the Rising Sun at the Spot Bouldering Gym29 photos by Justin Roth – A good comp like this one, at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado — Saturday, December 1, 2007, with no finals and no prizes (only giveaways and raffles), is a great time: there’s no pressure; your only prerogative is to climb new routes until pumpitude grounds you, hang out, and then enjoy the provided food and booze. What better way to spend Saturday night? READ THE EVENT RECAPThe Spot Bouldering Series Season 3, Event 2A good comp like this one, with no finals and no prizes (only giveaways and raffles), is a great time: there’s no pressure; your only prerogative is to climb new routes until pumpitude grounds you, hang out, and then enjoy the provided food and booze. VIEW THE EVENT GALLERYHigh-Altitude Testpiece in Colorado9/20/07 – Rob Pizem has redpointed a three-pitch line at around 12,000 feet (3,658m) on Mt. Evans in Colorado with a crux second pitch that goes at 5.13c/d.More Ticks of Colorado’s Hardest Boulders8/30/07 – Two of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems have each gotten a third ascent. Paul Robinson made the third ascent of Jade (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park, after six days of work on the line.Benefit at the Spot Gym for Michael Reardon’s Family7/23/07 – Please join us at the Spot for beer, food, slide show, raffle and a chance to pay our respects to an amazing person and a fellow climber. Thursday, July 26, 2007 8:00 p.m.Michael Reardon was in Ireland when a rogue wave tragically took him from us on Friday, July 13, 2007. His memory will live on with his family and the climbing community.This is a Fund Raiser for Michael Reardon’s family. A donation of $10.00 will get you in.Yellow Spur, Eldorado CanyonEither the Naked Edge is the 5.11 Yellow Spur, or the Yellow Spur is the 5.9 Naked Edge. Both are Layton Kor direttissimas — the Spur climbed in 1959, the Edge three years later — and both take Eldo’s most prominent arêtes, the Spur beelining up the vibrant-yellow pyramid of Redgarden Wall’s Tower One, the Edge towering 800 feet above the tumble of South Boulder Creek on Tower Two.Event for Steve DieckhoffBecause of all of you who showed up, and donated your time, energy, and products to the cause, the fundraising event June 2, 2007 at The Spot to help Boulder climber Steve Dieckhoff was a monster success. Organizers exceeded their goals, and the Boulder community came together for a great party and to celebrate the spirit of mutual support. We all had a taste of pizza, beer, and, of course, Steve’s singular art, and we all had a great time. Thank you, and please enjoy this online gallery from Beth Wald — bethwaldphotography.comColorado Businesses Go Above and Beyond in Support of Ovarian Cancer Fundraising5/22/07 – Local companies CAMP-USA and Great Trango Holdings develop products to raise awareness for the HERA Foundation, a Carbondale-based nonprofit that raises money and awareness for ovarian cancer research.54 Colorado 14’ers Skied in 12 Months1/22/07 – Free skier Chris Davenport has succeeded in an ambitious quest to ski all 54 of the Colorado 14’ers in less than 12 months.All Mixed Up, Thatchtop Mountain, RMNPThere are few perfect introductions to thin alpine ice climbing. Most are too thin, too slabby, or too fat. All Mixed Up is one of the few. Situated high on the east face of Thatchtop in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park …One Day in Northern Colorado – Red Feather Lakes BoulderingThis short film from Tendon productions features one day of bouldering in Northern Colorado with Chuck Fryberger. Watch as Chuck attempts a slew of hard classics scattered between Red Feather Lakes and the Poudre Canyon.Roaring Fork Climbers’ Coalition Seeks to Promote and Preserve Climbing in Western Colorado11/10/06 – In the last couple of years, climbers in the Roaring Fork Valley of Colorado have taken to developing the various crags that surround the area, though the history of rock climbing here goes back at least 40 years, and longer on the high peaks.Swissco bouldering in ColoradoThis short film from Wade David highlights a recent discovery of his in the alpine landscape of Colorado. Watch Wade send some of his favorite first ascents in this beautiful rocky mountain setting.The Reel Rock Film Tour Spins in Carbondale ColoradoCarbondale, CO – August 21, 2006 –ClimbingMagazine presents the Reel Rock Film Tour as a benefit for the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, a volunteer organization dedicated to raising money and awareness for ovarian cancer research and awareness programs.Ute Pass, ColoradoA short film about bouldering in Ute Pass. Put together by Jim Dziura, follow climber Lee Hand as he samples some of the area classics, including Ship’s Prow v7.Randall Levensaler – ABS7 National’sThe ABS7 Nationals started with in a frenzy. 40 tough finalists competed against the clock and each other, but the problems looked at first to be tougher. The final problems had competitors bouting against technical cruxes and hucking huge final throws for the lip. When the chalk dust settled Daniel Woods grabbed first place, but without solving the last Mens problem nor did any one else. Alex Puccio pushed past top women competitors Angie Payne and Emily Harrington to nab first place by reaching the highest point on problem 4.Randall Levensaler – ABS7 Citizen’s Comp – The SpotWith temperatures in Boulder hovering in the single digits it was a good day to be hanging out at the Spot, climbing or spectating the event. Even though the ABS citizen’s event started in the dark without powered the comp continued quietly under generator-powered floodlights. To organizer’s relief the power was soon back up, with the DJ laying down the beats and the Espresso machine back on full-throttle spirits were high. ABS citizen’s comp participants received, a free BBQ lunch, beer, front row seats to the ABS National Comp, raffle tickets and a party. After The Gold Rush – high country cragging in western ColoradoI crank the wheel hard as another sheer drop fills my windshield. My back wheels skate out, spraying grave as I overcorrect. My knuckles are white and my eyes are fixated on the guard rail. Instinctually, I hit the gas on my aging Subaru, gaining some speed but also control. As my heart rate slowly regulates, my gaze wanders from the road toward the majestic San Juan Mountains near Telluride — and again I nearly miss a turn, 1000 feet above the valley floor. I’ve driven this pass countless times, yet the exposure and panoramic views always get me. It’s only early autumn, but already the peaks are dusted in snow and the aspen trees are turning gold. Lou Dawson inducted into Colorado’s Ski Hall of Fame10/19/05 – Former pioneer Aspen rock climber and legendary backcountry skier Lou Dawson of Carbondale, Colorado, will be inducted into the Colorado Ski & Snowboard Hall of Fame.Colorado Alpine SicknessRMNP and Mt. Evans report. Freaks of the Industry (V14) was sent by Daniel Woods, Ben Safdi, and Dave Graham.Anchor Replacement Initiative – ColoradoSee what routes in Colorado have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Updated 1/18/10Anchor Replacement Initiative – North CarolinaSee what routes in North Carolina have been upgraded courtesy of the ARI. Updated 12/15/09Possible M14 in Colorado1/28/05 – Rich Purnell has redpointed an enormous cave route in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, and labeled the climb Alcatraz (M14).
Colorado WebcamsColorado Ice ConditionsThe latest ice reports for ColoradoTeva Mountain Games in Vail Colorado5/19/04 – Teva Mountain Games held in Vail Colorado is the largest celebration of mountain sports and culture in the United States. Professional and amateur athletes from around the world will compete in bouldering, mountain biking, whitewater paddling, and cross-country running – the event is the GORE-TEX USA trail running championship.Permanent road and campground closures possible at Turkey Rock, Colorado11/03/03 – Access to Turkey Rock could change drastically in the years to come if climbers don’t get more involved.