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11/20/13 – On October 28, Kevin Jorgeson talked to Climbing about this year’s Dawn Wall project in Yosemite.
“I’m excited about the project in a different way than I was four or five years ago. At the start my eyes were wide open, mind blown. Now, I’m so familiar with the route, I’m really focused on what the next step is to get the project done. I’m still inspired as all hell, especially as we continue to make progress on the hardest pitches. Every day of work, every sequence breakthrough or section linked is one step closer to a successful push.”
For Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Chris Sharma, every day in Yosemite means more progress. Here is a timeline of this season’s Dawn Wall project to date.
October 16: Yosemite National Park announces its reopening to visitors after being closed for 16 days by government shutdown.
October 20: Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Chris Sharma head out for their first day on the Dawn Wall. They climb five pitches, and then head to the top.
October 22: The team carries up loads to the top, and then climbs pitches 17 and 18 below Wino Tower.
October 23: Day four on the wall—Sharma tries to stick the Dyno pitch for the first time, creating his own beta.
October 24: After rigging the whole route and trying the cruxes, the power team hangs out at base camp.
October 25: On day six of the project, the climbers head back to work on pitch 15, the Dyno pitch. Caldwell comes close to sticking it, while Jorgeson works on the crux lie backing above.
October 26: The team goes mini-traxioning up the bottom six pitches, with grades from 12b to 13c. They begin work on pitch seven, a 5.14.
October 28: Burdened by rain, the climbers rest and think about the Dyno pitch.
October 29: Day ten on the wall—in freezing temps, they try the crux traverse pitches for the first time this trip and are pleased to find them a lot easier than before. They are happy to see their off-season training is working.
October 31: After trying pitches six, seven, and eight, the crew returns for a hang board workout before their rest day. The forecast is still looking clear for the week.
November 1: They battle with the first traverse pitch, hoping to win. Later, Jorgeson describes, “El Cap bites back,” as Caldwell’s haul bag takes a 200-foot fall while clipped to the back of his harness. Caldwell assumes it is a costochondral separation, the ripping of cartilage from the ribs, and heads home to heal.
November 5: After taking a break in Bishop following Caldwell’s injury, Jorgeson heads back to Yosemite to keep working. He works out the face traverse between two cracks on the third pitch but a hold broke, making it trickier. Jorgeson says his “fresh shoes” are helping.
Photo courtesy of Kevin Jorgeson.
November 6: The plan is to swing over pitch ten, a lie back with a permanent wet streak down the center.
November 9: Jorgeson battles with the first traverse pitch and makes some valuable refinements to the sequence. Warm temps remain.
November 18: Still sending…