December/January 2012 - 301



SURVIVORS: Climbing's history is packed with amazing survival stories. Here, 25 of the most inspiring. By Dougald MacDonald

MORE THAN ABLE: After a near-fatal accident, Craig DeMartino didn't let amputation limit his life. Instead, life handed him more opportunities than ever, including the Nose in a day. By Fitz Cahall. Photos by James Q Martin

STAYING ALIVE: Veteran climbing rangers from Yosemite, Mt. Rainier, and Grand Teton national parks share their top tips. By Jeff Achey


Editorial Our first instinct: survival


Hot Flashes The world's hardest offwidth goes at 5.14b. Plus, a Nose speed record gets broken, and no, it's not Alex Honnold.

10 Things... ... You might not have known about avalanches

Mileage Sharpen your crampons and ice axes: It's time to head to Hyalite Canyon, Montana.

Classic Climbs The perfect Colorado winter escape: Captain Beyond (5.10c) on the Mickey Mouse Wall.

Hot Spots Tower climbs aren't all in Canyonlands. There's a spire near you.

Gear Stay warm with this season's new puffies. Plus, the best trekking poles.

Tech Tips Effective tools for indoor ice training; efficient threesomes; and how to belay your pot-bellied partner

Perspective Roger Briggs: free climbing pioneer of Boulder's Eldorado Canyon