DiGiulian Fires Mind Control (5.14c)


3/12/12 - Sasha DiGiulian has jumped on the send train with Mind Control (5.14c) in Oliana, Spain. This is the route's fourth female ascent in less than a month: Daila Ojeda started the string of ascents in February, followed quickly by Nina Caprez and Caroline Ciavaldini. This is DiGiulian's fourth 5.14c.

"Venga chicas! It is amazing to me to see female climbers pushing their own limits, and I am 100 percent psyched for everyone!" she said on her 8a.nu account. "A beautiful, long line. Pure resistance." She redpointed Mind Control in four attempts.

Even more impressive is DiGiulian's main goal for the trip: the 135-foot La Rambla (5.15a) in Siurana, Spain. On her blog, DiGiulian expresses her excitement for Siurana's "long, technical, generally vertical climbs that are composed of small edges and sparse foot holds," which, when looking at her hardest ticks, like Pure Imagination (5.14d), seem to be her forte. La Rambla is the hardest route she's ever tried. "It is definitely a new level," she writes. "I have never projected something before. I am not sure if I've ever given any climb more than eight tries before sending it."

She spent three days working on La Rambla, then moved on to Oliana, where she redpointed Mind Control and onsighted Marroncita (5.13d). Before leaving Siurana, she succeeded on Kale Borroka (5.14a) and started working on Patinoso (5.14c). In Oliana, she plans to try Chris Sharma's Papichulo (5.15a).

DiGiulian arrived in Spain in late February to film a video with 3 Strings Media for her one of her sponsors, Adidas, and plans to stay until next week, when she'll travel to Stockholm, Sweden, to compete in an international bouldering competition. She recently competed in ABS Nationals, where she placed sixth.

Date of ascent: March 10, 2012

Sources: 8a.nu, sasha-digiulian.com/blog