7/18/11 - The first round of the Arco World Championships commenced this weekend, with Russia's Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Austria's Anna Stöhr as the 2011 bouldering world champs.
Stöhr was the only female competitor to top all four problems. Five of the six women finished the first problem, with the exception of Japanese Akiyo Noguchi. Stöhr then flashed number two, with Sasha DiGiulian and German Juliane Wurm following suit. Noguchi managed to catch up with a send of number two, vying with Russians Olga Bibik and Yana Chereshneva, who couldn't top the problem.
Stöhr gained clear control of the comp with a flash of number three, along with Noguchi and Wurm. DiGiulian didn't top the problem. On number four, Stöhr finished after three attempts. No other competitor finished the problem—each of the other women managed only two tops overall. DiGiulian took the silver medal, with Wurm accepting bronze (DiGiulian had fewer attempts reaching the bonus holds).
In the men's comp, no North American men made it to finals (the closest was Canada's Sean McColl, who finished 11th). Sharafutdinov, Czech Adam Ondra, and Russian Rustam Gelmanov topped all four problems. France's Cédric Lachat and Sharafutdinov flashed the first problem—which involved two dynos and a mantel ot the top—with Ondra topping out on his second attempt and Gelmanov on his fourth. Other finalists Kilian Fischhuber (Austria) and Thomas Tauporn (Germany) weren't able to figure the problem out.
On number two, Sharafutdinov, Gelmanov, and Ondra flashed with ease, with Fischhuber finishing on his fourth attempt. Sharafutdinov went into the third problem in first place, with Ondra right behind with one more attempt overall. This changed when Ondra flashed number three—Sharafutdinov needed two attempts—bringing them to a tie going into the final problem. (Gelmanov was in third, having topped number three on his second try.)
Tauporn, Fischhuber, and Lachat failed to top the final problem. Ondra topped out in four attempts, and Gelmanov needed only three. Sharafutdinov pulled an impressive victory with a flash, gaining a clear-cut win.
It's interesting to note that Sharfutdinov and Stöhr were the 2007 bouldering champions in Avilés, Spain.
Women's Final Results:
Other U.S. finishes: Alex Johnson (7th); Angie Payne (17th); Francesca Metcalf (19th); Alex Puccio (23rd); Dana Riddle (39th)
Men's Final Results:
U.S. finishes: Carlo Traversi (36th); Ian Dory (70th); Josh Levin (70th); Matty Hong (86th); Alex Johnson (88th); Alex Fritz (99th); Joseph Gifford (112th)