DiGiulian Wins Overall Gold at Arco


7/24/11 - Austria was well-represented at this year's Arco World Championships Lead Competition, with three athletes on both podiums. Former World Champions Angela Eiter of Austria and Ramón Julian Puigblanque of Spain finished in first place. Korean Jain Kim and Austrian Magdalena Röck placed second and third, along with Austrian Jakob Schubert and Czhech Adam Ondra. Sasha DiGiulian, the only American to qualify for finals, finished eighth.

Eiter went into finals ranked third, behind teammates Röck and Johanna Ernst, the defending world champion. The first four women to climb the finals route—DiGiulian, Austrian Christine Schranz, Slovenian Mina Markovic, and Austrian Katharina Posch—fell dynoing for a large sloper. Eiter was the first to stick the move, using a heel hook instead of dynoing, but didn't reach the top. Ernst, Röck, and Kim all tried the dyno, and all three fell, leaving Eiter as 2011's champion.

Puigblanque was the only man to top the finals route. Schubert and Ondra both touched the top but couldn't stick the move. Russians Evgeny Ovchinnikov and Evgeny Zazulin fell low on the route, while France's Manuel Romain and Norway's Magnus Midtboe climbed past their highpoints into the roof before falling. Korean Hyunbin Min also fell low on the route.

After the speed and duel competitions, the top overall ranked climbers were awarded. DiGiulian received the gold, followed by Anna Stöhr of Austria and Markovic. Ondra received the men's gold, along with Germany's Thomas Tauporn and Switzerland's Cédric Lachat.

Women's Final Results:

  1. Angela Eiter (AUT)

  2. Jain Kim (KOR)

  3. Magdalena Röck (AUT)

  4. Johanna Ernst (AUT)

  5. Katharina Posch (AUT)

  6. Mina Markovic (SLO)

  7. Christine Schranz (AUT)

  8. Sasha DiGiulian (USA)

Men's Final Results:

  1. Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP)

  2. Jakob Schubert (AUT)

  3. Adam Ondra (CZE)

  4. Magnus Midtboe (NOR)

  5. Manuel Romain (FRA)

  6. Hyunbin Min (KOR)

  7. Evgeny Ovchinnikov (RUS)

  8. Evgeny Zazulin (RUS)