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Everest Weather Reports for Spring 2007

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5/23/07 20 knots SW, light snow showers, -25C

5/22/07 6 pm a few clouds, -22 c, winds will go up to 40 knots (20 m/s) during the day

5/21/07 20 knots SW, light snow showers, -25C

5/20/07 6 pm some high clouds, 16 knots SW, -23C

5/19/07 Partly cloudy, -23 C, 20 knots SW

5/18/07 20 knots SW, partly cloudy -23 C

5/17/07 25 knots SW, -25 C, cloudy

5/16/07 35 knots sw, some snow -22 C

5/15/07 Partly cloudy, -25 c, 25 knots sw

5/14/07 50 knots SW cloudy, -24 CTropical cyclone Akash is in the Bay of Bengal will move away from Everest and will bring surface winds in the Bay for 50 knot

5/13/07 45 knots from SW, -23 C, cloudy with some showers

5/12/07 cloudy, -25 c, 62 knots SW

5/11/07 snow, -22c, 56 knots from west

5/10/07 some clouds, 45 knots west, -23C

5/09/07 cloudy, -26 c, winds 40 knots SWJet stream will be close to the region by Friday May 11 and Saturday May 12

5/08/07 Winds 34 SW, cloudy, -25 C

5/07/07 28 knots from SW, cloudy, -30C

5/06/07 Snow, 20 knots west, -31 c

5/04/07 -28 c, 20 knots south, cloudy to partly cloudy

5/03/07 Snow, 25 knots east, – 28 C

5/02/07 25 knots at west, -29 C, some snow showers

5/01/07 Few high clouds, 40 knots from west, -29C

April Weather Data located on Page 2.’s weather forecast and dispatches are sponsored;;

The Lhotse Face.Image Courtesy of IMG.


Dispatch from IMG – Final IMG Team Summits and Descends Safely – May 21, 2007 – 10:45pm (PST)I’m happy to say that our final summit bid was successful today, with Yau Choon and Jamling Bhote reaching the summit and returned safely to the Col. All other IMG members have now descended to Base Camp. We are still waiting to get the whole story from Dave, Casey, and Mike on the big rescue yesterday of the Nepali female climber (not a Sherpani) from the Nepal Democrat Expedition. We’ll let you know when we hear more. This morning we had our first five Sherpas climbing back to the Col to start carrying gear down. Some of the members who descended a couple days ago have already started hiking out from BC now. Over the next several days the Sherpa team will remove the camps and start packing up the gear. We won’t relax, though, until all the people are safely off the mountain.—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from IMG – Third IMG Team Descends Safely Carrying Out Difficult Rescue On Way Down – May 21, 2007 – 4:30pm (PST) Mark Tucker reports from Base Camp that all is well with the IMG team. Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Extreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted! IMG Guide Dave Hahn, who just became the 2nd western climber to have summited Everest 9 times (still tied with George Dijmarescu,) has a long history of leading some of the most difficult rescues in mountaineering history. Among them is the highest known rescue of five climbers on the North Ridge of Everest just below the summit in 2001 for which he and three other IMG guides received the David A. Sowles award. You can also read Dave’s own account of that rescue.—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch AAI – May 21 am – First Night at South ColHello Friend, Family, and Loved Ones. This is Alpine Ascents reporting in from the edge of ”the death zone” – Camp 4 at 7,960 meters/26,100 feet. The weather up here is phenomenal. It was almost dead calm all night long. The whole team slept well. We had stars, moon, and we could also see some lightening flashes from storms down in India. Everyone slept well on the oxygen flow and woke up this morning to the sherpas bringing us dudh chia (milk tea). So everybody is very good, the weather is good, the altitude is great, we have a rest day, and we’re set and in position to go for the summit. We’re keeping all our fingers and toes crossed for good weather tonight. Please give us your best wishes as we prep for our big push to the top of the world. Vern Tejas at Camp 4P.S. From Base Camp: We are expecting the team to be leaving the South Col tonight around 10:00 Nepal time on their way to the summit. We will be bringing you regular reports every few hours as they head for the top. In the evenings the satellite connection sometimes gets jammed up with heavy use from India. If that happens Kristine Kitayama in the Alpine Ascents office has volunteered to take our phone calls and forward the news to you all. One way or the other we’ll keep you posted about how the team is doing.

Dispatch from AAI – May 20am – On the Move to Camp 4 – Good Morning in cyberland It’s another exciting morning for us as the team moves on up the mountain from Camp 3 to Camp 4. Today they will be meeting notable landmarks including the Yellow Band, the Geneva Spur, and the South Col itself. Our weather has been very warm, to the point that there was discussion this morning about whether to wear down suits or not. With the higher elevations we can expect the temperatures to be cooler, but the sun on the mountain has been intense. Some will wear their suits, others are deciding not to. Last night the team slept on oxygen for the first time, and today they will be climbing using oxygen for the first time. They’ve already noticed how much easier life is with a few extra O’s. The night at Camp 3 was much easier than the last time they were there. So far the weather is cooperating with sunny skies, mild temperatures, and almost no wind. We are watching the forecasts as they are calling for winds in the 10 to 30 knot range at the summit over the next few days. When the temperatures are below zero that makes things a little more chilly but not impossible. We’ll see what it really does. So far we are on track for leaving the South Col for the summit tomorrow night, and hopefully reaching the summit on the morning of May 22 (Nepal time). Meanwhile, here at Base Camp we have valley clouds that are staying below the elevation of the climbers. We have beautiful views of the higher peaks peaking through the clouds and bathed in sunlight. Base Camp is busy this morning and filled with the music of yak bells. Some of the teams that have already reached the summit are now packing up and heading down the valley for home. In the next day or two all our close neighbors will be gone and our camp will be a small island in the middle of the glacier. Check back for more news from the team after they reach Camp 4 later today. Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager

Dispatch from IMG – First Team Down Safe; Next Team in Position – May 19, 2007 Ang Jangbu reports that the first summit team all made it back to the Col OK, and that Benjamin/Danuru and David/Dorje Lama continued their descent to Camp 2. The second summit team of Ryan, Sam, Russ, Nat, J.P., J.R., and Fernando along with Panuru, Dasona, Kami, Dawa Nuru and Samduk Dorje all made it up to the Col in good shape (before noon) so they will have plenty of time to rest and re-hydrate up there this afternoon in preparation for their summit bid tonight.—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from IMG – Teams Getting Into Position for Summit Bids – May 17, 2007 Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker report that Al, JW, Benjamin, Dave S, Andre and Sherpas Pasang Rinzing, Mingma Tsering, Danuru, Dorje Lama, Ang Namgya have made it to Camp 3. Mike N. went back to Camp 2 and will try again in a couple days. Tomorrow the plan is that they will move up to the South Col, where they will be joined by support climbers Ang Passang, Mingma Tenzing, Nima Karma, Tshewang Lhendup, Phinjo Dorje, and Ang Karma (who will be the South Col water melter). Also climbing to the Col tomorrow (and going back to Camp 2) are Chebbi, Lhakpa Bhote, Ramji, and Ang Nima. Tomorrow we have Ryan, Sam, Russ, Nat, J.P., J.R., Fernando going to C3 along with Panuru, Dasona, Kami, Dawa Nuru and Samduk Dorje. Haugen and Grom head for C2 in the morning. Tim and Phinjo will start up tomorrow. SO, everything is set for the first summit bids — let’s keep hoping the weather stays reasonable!!—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch from AAI – May 16 – BCFriends, family and loved ones, We are in “Go” mode. Every one of us is excited with anticipation as we prepare for tomorrows departure for the upper mountain. Weather report looks favorable and we are all in good health. Even potential people problems with other teams seem to be resolving themselves. The first teams from the South side summited this morning relieving some of the human pressure on our route. Hopefully in the next few days even more folks will top out and be gone by the time we move into position. This is actually our plan, to miss the first wave and go when it’s warmer and less crowded. Still, we have time for fun and games. We need to remain relaxed as it’s real easy to get sucked up into the mood of summit fever. Patience is a virtue in times such as these. To that end we cheer Firat the “Champ” of base camp Chess. We also salute the gallant team member that, under the cover of darkness, stole the dinner “Gong” from a very noisy nearby British team. Only time will tell if we will be made to pay retribution for this dastardly deed. Stay tuned. Wish us luck, Vern

Dispatch AAI – May 14 – BCNamaste and Tashi Delek everyone out there!I’ve been a bit out of the loop here in cybercasting land since I was under the weather for a few days after our drop back. I’m slowly coming back around and my body is starting to cooperate. Everyone around camp is abuzz with summit hopes and ideas. Many people have already headed up on their summit pushes and many more are on their way tomorrow and the day after. It’s an exciting time of the season for everyone! We are planning on having at least another day here at BC before we head up to begin our long march to the summit. The forecasts are starting to solidify and come together in a good way for us and I’m optimistic how things are shaping up. Today we had a mix of rain and sun. We’re still enjoying the luxuries here in BC. That includes a great game of Texas Hold ‘Em tonight with another American team coming over to utilize our professional chips. Hopefully the local boys do well. With sun out each day we we’ve also been able to enjoy some movies the past couple of days- a great distracter to keep the mind off the summit push until we actually begin. The team is healthy and strong with no real sickness or difficulties to hang us up at this point. We’re looking forward to an exciting and wild 3rd week of May here! We’ll be in touch soon.All the best, Dave

Dispatch from IMG – Weather Delaying Summit Bids – May 13, 2007IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu Sherpa report from Base Camp that the weather has taken a turn for the worse and the first summit bid has been postponed for a few days. Yesterday there was a big windstorm that came through that caused a lot of damage to some groups. Fortunately, IMG’s cooks Bale and Sante at 21,000 foot Camp 2 did a great job keeping the kitchen/dining tents from blowing away. We are continuing to monitor the weather closely, and as soon as things are looking better, it will be time to start the summit bids. In the meantime, the team is at Base Camp eating yaks steaks and doing some power resting getting ready for the big push!They wish everyone back home a happy Mother’s Day!

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

INDIA METEOROLOGICAL DEPARTMENT – 13th May, 2007 Depression over Bay of BengalThis was issued by India Meteorological Department. As this tracks to the north towards Everest over the next several days prec. amounts will need to be closely watched.Morning’s depression over east central Bay of Bengal remained practically stationary and lay centred at 1430 hrs IST of today the 13th May 2007 near Lat.15.00N and Long 90.50E about 400 kms northwest of Port Blair. The System is likely to intensify further and move in a northerly direction initially. Under its influence, widespread rainfall with isolated heavy falls are likely over Andaman & Nicobar Islands during next 48 hrs. The squally winds speed reaching 45-55 kmph is likely over Andaman & Nicobar Islands and adjoining sea areas during the same period. Sea condition will be rough to very rough. Fishermen of these islands are advised not to venture into the sea.

Dispatch from SuperSherpas – May 11 Today the SuperSherpas held their team meeting for the summit push. This is a very important meeting. Its primary purpose is to review all of the safety measures for the team members on their varied jobs up to the summit. Apa and Lhakpa are summit veterans and make sure that the team is fully briefed prior to any climbing that will be done. Tomorrow morning the team will say their prayers at our Puja alter and the Juniper will be lit. The Juniper is replenished and continues to burn, sending up fragrant smoke to the gods, until their safe return. Please say your prayers for the safe return of the entire Supersherpa team.

Jerry Mika, SuperSherpas base camp manager

Dispatch IMG – R&R Over, First Summit Team Starting Up – May 10, 2007 IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports from Base Camp that most of the IMG climbers have now returned after their forays of R & R down valley. Everyone is doing OK, despite the ubiqutous Khumbu cough caused by the dry air. In the past couple days, IMG’s Mingma Tenzing and Tshewang Lhendup overnighted at the Col and fixed to just below the Balcony. The first summit team is now slated to leave for Camp 1 tomorrow, with a possible summit by May 16th, weather depending. We’ll keep you posted on the members involved in this bid when we get the final roster.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch SuperSherpas – May 9Yesterday the team came down from Camp 3 late in the afternoon. We were very happy to see them. All are doing well, but a little sun burned and tired. Overall, everyone is in very good health. Today we had a great interview for the documentary with Ang Rita, the very famous Sherpa known as the “Snow Leopard”. He has climbed Mt. Everest 10 times without oxygen. Here are a few questions we had for Ang Rita: Question: Why did you climb without oxygen? Answer: Because my pack was lighter. I had to carry the clients’ oxygen and all their gear so I decided to do it this way and save energy. Question: Would you recommend to the young climbers to use oxygen? Answer: Yes, because I have lost my memory over the years and feel they should always use oxygen. Question: What village in Nepal has the most famous mountaineers? Answer: Of course it is Thame. Myself, Apa Sherpa, Ang Purba and Lhakpa Rita are all from Thame. Question: Did you climb for financial reasons or for the love of the mountains? Answer: I climbed to give my kids an education and to feed my family like all Sherpas do. The team will rest and see what the weather brings in the next few days. Stand by for the latest and thanks for checking in. Base camp out – Jerry Mika, SuperSherpas base camp manager

Dispatch SuperSherpas -May 7 The team is at Camp 2 and doing well. They will move to Camp 3 today, up the Lhotse face, and return to Camp 2 for one more night of acclimatization. Everyone will return to base camp on Tuesday to rest and get ready for the summit window to open. Arita and Ang Passang are on their way to Camp 4, below the South Col, to get set up. This morning Ang Nima Sherpa, known as the Icefall Doctor, came by to help carry up eight oxygen bottles to Camp 2 for the SuperSherpas team. Accompanying Ang Nima was Ang Kami Sherpa and Ang Gaylzyn. The icefall doctors, like the SuperSherpas, have existed in the shadows (literally) of the fame that accrues to the foreign teams and climbers. They are hired by the Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee, which is in turn paid by expedition teams for their services. Being in charge of maintaining the precarious and dangerous paths through the ever changing glacier falls to this small band of intrepid Sherpas. They work everyday in the most dangerous part of Mt. Everest. They are both very talented and incredibly aware of the invisible signals that the moving mass generates. This “awareness” has been the key to their great safety record. Thank you to the Ice Fall Doctors for their heroic efforts to keep us all safe. Congratulations to trekker Rulon Bunker who, with dogged determination, made it to base camp. His brother Lance has been anxiously awaiting his arrival.

Jerry Mika, SuperSherpas base camp manager

Dispatch IMG- Oxygen at Col; Finishing C3 Rotations – May 5, 2007Another big day for the sherpas. We now have 94 bottles (@1800L) on the South Col. Six more sherpas are scheduled to carry again tomorrow with camping gear. The last few IMG team members are on Camp 3 rotation. Some are now headed down valley today and more tomorrow. Meeting at HRA today for fixing above the Col — tentative May 8th sleep at Col and fix to the Balcony on 9th.

—Mark Tucker, Expedition Co-leader

Dispatch AAI – May 3 Camp 3We arrived at Camp 3 at about 4:00 yesterday afternoon and got right into the tents. We were tired after a nine hour climb. We went right to work making pots of water for our water bottles and ramen noodle soup, garlic shells, fruit cups, and all the various accoutrements that go with dinner at Camp 3. The evening was very beautiful with the full moon. We could see all the way out through the Cwm. Then it started snowing through the night. I thought it was snowing pretty hard all night, but when we woke up in the morning there really wasn’t any accumulation. It was just a flurry of snow crystals hitting the tent all night long. The temperature went down to about -10 F. We all slept pretty well, although restless. Everybody did very well throughout the night. We were impressed. This morning we got up when the sun hit the tents at 8:40 and started the stoves. At 10:30 we made our way down to Camp 2. It was very hot. We wanted to take all our clothes off it was so hot. It took us four hours to get down to Camp 2. Dave and Lakpa (after Lakpa carried a load to Camp 3) fixed a down rope most of the way from Camp 3 down to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. We spent the afternoon resting in our tents enjoying some fresh beautiful snow at Camp 2, and now we’re getting ready for another delicious meal. Tomorrow we head down to the luxuries of Base Camp. Amy Bullard from Camp 2

Dispatch AAI – May 2 – Up to Camp 3This is the Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition calling in from Camp 3. We just drug our weary little legs in here a little while ago. We’re just firing up the stoves and looking forward to getting rehydrated. Firat has made a beautiful bed out of our tent palace here. We’re about half way up the Lhotse face with a view that goes on for miles when the clouds aren’t around. It’s been snowing for the last hour or so, but everyone is very happy to be here. We have a little coughing going on in the group, but for the most part I’m pretty impressed with how everyone pulled in here. There have been no major problems, which just goes to show that our acclimatization program is hard to beat. We’ve been doing everything right, so we’ll see how we sleep tonight. The whole reason for being here at 7,000 meters, perched on the hillside, is to acclimatize. We don’t anticipate that it’s going to be an easy night, but it is going to stress our systems, and that will hopefully encourage us to form more red blood cells and to adapt in many ways to the high altitude rigors that are in the days to come before we go to Camp 4 and then on to the summit. We also must thank our splendid Sherpa team. They have chopped out our tent platforms – there are six tents up here. They carried all of our sleeping gear up here as well, so they did a yeoman’s duty today. Our tents are relatively level, which is impressive seeing as how this is a blue ice glacier. They chopped them out of about a 40 degree angle, which is predominant throughout the Lhotse Face. They found a low angle part of it and put up the tents in two tiers, sort of like terraces for farming rice. We hope everyone has a wonderful evening, sleep well, and think of us in the morning when you wake up. I’m sure we’ll be feeling the altitude, so we just want to share our joy with everyone. Ciao for now and have a good night. Vern Tejas at Camp 3

Dispatch Super Sherpas – 5/1/2007 – 8:42:45 AMDay Log, received May 1 morning (evening at base camp) April 30 Passang Gyalzen Sherpa and Ongchhu Sherpa left at 4:30 a.m. to Camp 1. They carried tents, gas, stoves and food. Also at 4:30 a.m., Arita Sherpa and Ang Passang Sherpa went to Camp 2, 21,300 feet. They carried 50 lbs. each with tents, stoves, gas and food and returned at 12:20 p.m. It was incredible. Mingma Chirring and Dr. Scott McIntosh left at 5 a.m. for Camp 1 to acclimate. They returned at 2:30 p.m. Apa, Lhakpa, Dawa and Pemba left at 6 a.m. and went to Camp II. Before they left they said prayers and lit juniper. This is a very bad year in the ice fall. We have witnessed major avalanches. It is very hot in the days making it very dangerous. They were very tired when they returned at 4:15 p.m. and we had a big dinner of dhalbat, a favorite of the Sherpas.

Dispatch IMG – Team Acclimating at Camps 2 and 3; North Side Summit – April 30, 2007Most of the IMG team members are now either at Camp 2 or will be there in the next couple days, to do their overnight acclimatization rotation at Camp 3. Three IMG sherpas carried into C3 today and six more will carry to C3 tomorrow. Ang Jangbu reports that the Ice 8000 sherpas are now moving up to finish the fixing into the Col, and the rest of the IMG sherpas are now moving to Camp 2 in preparation for carries to the Col. Everest was summited yesterday from the North by five of the Himex sherpa team, fixing the summit ridge. Congrats to them — we hope to not be far behind!

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch AAI -April 29: Up the Cwm to Camp 2We woke up at 6:30 yesterday morning at Camp 1. We had a great breakfast with lots of bacon. We headed out of camp at 8:30 going up the Western Cwm to Camp 2. We were able to make it into camp about 1:00, which was pretty quick time. We were able to shave at least an hour off our previous time. The weather was overcast, a little bit cloudy, so it wasn’t too hot. So it was a perfect day to be hiking up the Cwm, probably better than any other trip. We got to Camp 2, had some snacks, wandered around, made camp, stretched, read, did puzzles, and then we had a nice dinner in the evening and told animal stories. Then everyone slept really well last night.That’s all from Amy at Camp 2 (21,300 ft/6,500 meters

Dispatch IMG – Icefall Negotiation; Climbing to Camp 2; Sad News – April 28, 2007Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker report from Base Camp that the SPCC agreed to hire additional sherpas to work with the Icefall Doctors. Good timing, since a collapse in the “popcorn” section (about 1/3 of the way up) yesterday shut down the route for the day. Additionally, there was snow and wind yesterday — not a good day for climbing

Now, the route has been successfully repaired, and seven members of the IMG team and their personal sherpas were able to go all the way to Camp 2 today. Joining them at Camp 2 are Phunuru, Mingma Tenzing, Nima Karma, Tshewang Lhendup, Phinjo Dorje and Samduk Dorje who are getting ready to start initial carries to the South Col. The rest of the sherpas carried Camp 2 today. Sad news from the day before yesterday when a sherpa from another team was killed near the base of the Lhotse Face. His body was brought down to BC today with help of sherpas from various teams, including our IMG Sherpas who were carrying to Camp 2.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch AAI – April 28 – Up to Camp 1 Again The name of the game today is WIND. Gusts rattled the tents from about midnight through the wee hours of the morning, making sleep a little difficult. It was still blowing around 4:30 am when our intrepid team members roused themselves out of their warm sleeping bags, wolfed down some breakfast, put on their climbing harnesses, and headed up into the icefall for their second acclimatization trip up the mountain. From base camp we watched a line of dots as climbers from several different teams left base camp and headed for Camps 1 and 2. We also watched huge plumes of spindrift snow blowing off all the surrounding peaks. Ang Tshering at Camp 2 called in around 8:00 and told us it was cold and windy up there as well, so our Camp 2 staff was hunkered down in the tents trying to stay warm. Today our climbing members are heading for Camp 1, where they will spend the night before continuing on to Camp 2 tomorrow. Their ultimate goal for this trip is to spend a night at Camp 3 at about 7,000 meters. When they head for the summit they will sleep on oxygen at Camp 3 and be on oxygen from there on up. But for this trip they will try to spend the night without supplemental oxygen to force their bodies to acclimatize to the altitude as much as possible. All in all it will be a miserable night but will help them later on. Meanwhile, some of our sherpas will begin sleeping at Camp 2 to be in position to begin carrying loads up to the South Col. They will be taking tents, food, and bottles of oxygen up to Camp 4 in preparation for our future summit attempt. Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager

Dispatch IMG – Putting in High Camps, and Icefall Politics – April 25, 2007IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu report that rope fixing on the Lhotse Face continues to go well. IMG sherpas installed more ropes above Camp 3 and now the sherpas from other teams have taken over and have made it to above the Yellow Band, and should be to the Col very soon. IMG sherpas all came down yesterday for a rest at BC after a big week of work. Tomorrow we will have 22 sherpas carrying to Camp 2. The plan is to send about 6 sherpas to Camp 2 to sleep on Friday and to finish putting in Camp 3 on Saturday and Sunday. Then, the rest of the Sherpas will be moving to Camp 2 on Sunday to try and put in South Col next week. The goal is to have the Col stocked by early May, then pull the Sherpas down again to give them a good rest break, then be ready to pull the trigger on summit bids, weather permitting, any time after about May 10.Today at BC there is a meeting with the SPCC representative and the leaders from many of the teams, with the goal to try to get SPCC (the organization responsible for the icefall route) to commit to hiring more Icefall Doctors, to improve the route. SPCC has collected a LOT of money form the various expeditions teams (IMG alone paid $8400 in icefall fees), and the teams want to see the money spent on the route maintenance!!IMG team members continue their acclimatization rotations to C1 and C2, and everyone is doing well. The climbers will be ready to start doing the Camp 3 rotations next week, once C3 is finished.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Live Weather Map

Weather Map courtesy of http://wxmaps.orgThe map above is the 200 millibar chart (which is at about 39,000 feet-11,818 meters) and this is generally where the jet stream can be found.The wind speeds are colored coded. The lightest color have winds of 40 knots(20 meters per second) and the darkest colors have winds of 200 knots (100meters per second)Winds in jet stream usually exceed 80 knots (40 meters per second)Mount Everest is located in the northeast corner of Nepal.

5/04/07 -28 c, 20 knots south, cloudy to partly cloudy

5/03/07 Snow, 25 knots east, – 28 C

5/02/07 25 knots at west, -29 C, some snow showers

5/01/07 Few high clouds, 40 knots from west, -29C

4/30/07 40 knots west, cloudy, -28 C

4/29/07 -28 C, 55 knots west, some snow showers

4/28/07 Winds 70 from NW, a few clouds, -31C

4/27/07 6 knots from SW, snow showers, -30C

4/26/07 60 knots from west, some snow showers, -25C

4/25/07 Snow showers, 60 knots west, and -27C

4/24/07 60 knots from west (stronger gusts at times) -27C, some snow showers

4/24/07 60 knots from west (stronger gusts at times) -27C, some snow showers

4/23/07 Snow, winds 40 to 50 knots from SW, -31C.

4/22/07 40 knots west, partly cloudy, -30 C.

4/21/07 30 knots from SW, some clouds, -30 C.

4/20/07 30 knots from west, – 30C. Some snow showers

4/19/07 25 knots SW, and -32C. Snow

4/18/07 25 knots NW, -33 C. Snow

4/17/07 25 knots from west, -31C. with snow

4/16/07 25 knots NW, -33C. Snow at times

4/13/07 30 knots NW, -32 C. Snow

4/12/07 20 to 30 knot from NW, -33 C. Some snow showers

4/11/07 30 knots from N to NW , -32 C. Some snow showers’s weather forecast and dispatches are sponsored;;

Dispatch AAI – April 24 – BCDear friends, family and loved ones,It was a brutal rest day. Our challenges were many and our pleasures were few. It all started with seeing who could stay in bed the longest however once the sun hit the tents the heat was unbearable and we were forced out. A demanding four course breakfast was followed by either yoga or an acclimatization trek to the base camp bakery. Then there was the quandary of deciding whether to shower, answer emails or suffer though a session of massage therapy. Deepak (our cook) insisted that we eat sushi for lunch. That was almost enough to sustain us through the ordeals of the afternoon which included cards, walking the slack line, washing clothes and reading. In the evening had to partake of John’s powerpoint presentation of several expeditions. All said and done, it was so exhausting, we barely made it back to our sleeping bags before nine….what a day!Weather has fallen into a familiar pattern with clear warm mornings and snowy afternoons. Team members are now sleeping well after the challenges of camp one and two. Though we have had some sore throats we have missed (so far) the major cold outbreak that has run though base camp. Stay tuned.All the best,Vern

Dispatch AAI – April 23 – BCAhh… back in the land of amenities. The whole team is back in BC after a successful trip up into the Western Cwm. We spent a couple of nights in CI and a couple of nights in CII with varying degrees of sleep quality and quantity. Despite some sleeplessness (is that a word?) and a couple of headaches everyone was excited by the enormity of the environment.Yesterday we took a walk half way from CII to the base of the Lhotse face. Everybody’s legs felt like lead as we made our way above 21,000’ for the first time on the climb… the next time our legs will still feel like lead but perhaps half the weight. It is a bit sobering.Our Sherpa staff have been nearly running up and down from BC to CII over the past couple days and are on their last 2 days of carrying oxygen bottles. Later they’ll have a few days of moving those bottles from CII to the South Col. It’s a remarkable feat and as per usual the climbers are shocked at their strength. The trip down to BC from CII was pleasantly uneventful as the whole team climbed safely despite being a bit fatigued from the first acclimatization journey. The shower was quite popular despite the dusting of snow throughout the afternoon.The next few days will be spent doing laundry, catching up on reading and will include plenty of poker games with Firat our Texas hold ‘em ringleader. If they haven’t already I’m sure the climbers will be sending emails to all their friends and family.We’ll be in touch over the next few relaxing days!All the best,Dave

Dispatch IMG – Acclimating at Camps 1 and 2 – April 21, 2007Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker report from BC that the IMG team members are continuing their acclimatization runs to Camp 1 and Camp 2, and several have now tried out the route on the lower Lhotse Face. The IMG Camp 3 climbers have now returned to Base Camp. Congratulations to them on their “summit” on the Lhotse Face! This is steep and icy, and you look directly up at the summit of Everest, 7000 feet above… very spectacular climbing!Meanwhile, the IMG Sherpas continue to build our Camp 3, and Mingma Tenzing and Nima Karma fixed another 200 meters of rope above Camp 3, as the route gets pushed towards the Col. Seventeen loads of food went to Camp 2 yesterday, in preparation of the increased occupation of that camp by the climbers and Sherpas, as the “action” starts to move higher on the mountain!

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch AAI April 21 – From Camp 1 to Camp 2Today we moved from Camp 1 to Camp 2. It took us about 5 hours. It was very hot. The second half of the day was VERY hot. We covered every speck of skin we had to keep out of the sun, and we practiced the rest step. The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was very straight forward. It was one of the easier days on the mountain. There are very few ladders this year, so very little objective danger. Everybody is doing well clipping in and out of protection, walking across ladders, and dealing with the sun. Everyone is here at Camp 2 now, at our lovely Advanced Base Camp on the top of the hill. We’re having soup and snacks. James is very sad to find out that his scrabble word “squids” is not allowable. But he’s doing ok with that. So it’s off to dinner we go. This is Amy Bullard signing off until tomorrow.

Dispatch IMG – Camp 3 – April 18, 2007IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports that our Sherpas finished fixing the route to Camp 3, established the IMG camp, dug out some platforms, and carried some equipment to begin supply C3.

Camp 3 is a very uncomfortable and unpleasant camp — with spindrift commonly sweeping down the Lhotse Face from above and piling up over the tents. Now that the site is established, there is still a lot of chopping and digging necessary to excavate additional tent platforms. These tents will be used by the climbers and the personal sherpas on the next acclimatization rotation, and on the summit bids for an overnight en route to Camp 4 (South Col). The Sherpas generally skip Camp 3 when they go to the Col — they will not stay there if they can avoid it!

Mike, Casey, and the C2/C3 crew spent the night at C1 and went partway to C2 for acclimatization, then back to C1. They hope to move to C2 tomorrow.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dispatch AAI – April 18 – BCNamaste from Everest BC. It’s the night before we head up for our first acclimatization trip. There’s a bit of snow falling and everyone is heading off to bed. The past couple of days we’ve been playing in the ice pinnacles getting our gear dialed and our skills sharpened. Yesterday a couple of us headed up to the top of the icefall to check out the route and see how the icefall is faring so far. It is a bit more broken up this season than in the past few making a bit more circuitous route. The rest of the team headed up the icefall a couple of hundred feet to the second ladder. The team is psyched about the chance to get up higher tomorrow. We’ll spend 2 nights at CI and 2 nights at CII if things go as planned. We are all looking forward to seeing how the Sherpa have done setting up our camps. But most importantly everyone is excited to see the Western Cwm and the first views of the SW face of Everest as well as Lhotse and Nuptse. We’ll be in touch from the Western Cwm! All the best, Dave