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3/27/13 – DMM, a sponsor of Alexander Megos, has published an interview with the 19-year-old after his historic onsight of Estado crítico in Siurana, Spain. Megos originally wanted to try La Rambla (5.15a), but because he didn’t know where that line went, he decided to attempt Estado crítico instead. He didn’t feel strong at the start, where a hard crack resides, but after he held on through that section, he discovered the route suited his style perfectly: small crimps on overhanging terrain.
“At the beginning until nearly the end of the route, I didn’t believe that I can do it, but two quickdraws before the top I had a little bit of hope, because I knew that I am already quite high. Then I managed to climb the crux (for me) to the last bolt before the top and then I really believed, that I have a good chance to do it,” Megos said. In the last three meters to the top, he “climbed every move super-controlled. I was really under tension when I came to the top, and of course super happy.
“I don’t want to say anything about the grade, and I can’t say anything about it. I did everything perfectly right on my onsight, no mistakes while climbing, and I was super focused and motivated. It was a perfect flow…” he said.
Read more of the interview at DMM.
3/25/13 – German climber Alexander Megos has made the world’s first 5.14d onsight with an ascent of Estado crítico in Siurana, Spain.
Spanish website Desnivel reported the news that Megos climbed Estado crítico on March 24, making history with the world’s first (confirmed) 5.14d onsight. Last year, Adam Ondra made headlines with onsights of hard routes in the Red River Gorge, previously considered to be 5.14d (Pure Imagination, The Golden Ticket—he did both in the same day); however, the Czech climber downgraded both routes to 5.14c.
Estado crítico was bolted by Dani Andrada but first climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2004; Nico Favresse followed quickly with the second ascent two months later. Other ascensionists have somewhat disputed the grade: Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga, and Ondra have all stated that the climb could be 5.14c. But Edu Marin, Magnus Midtbø, and Markus Jung (among others) confirmed the climb at 5.14d. Update: Ondra climbed Estado crítico in 2007; in 2010, Cédric Lachat broke a hold while attempting the route. Since, Ondra has reversed course on his opinion of the grade: “Before Estado crítico was more of an endurance problem,” Ondra said. “Now there is a definite crux… Estadocrítico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a.”
Megos spent four months in the U.S. starting in October, traveling across the States and putting down hard route after hard boulder problem. He climbed The Fly (5.14d) and China Beach (5.14b) at Rumney, New Hampshire; Pure Imagination (flash) and The Golden Ticket; and several V13s, including Terre de Sienne and Slashface, in Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Date of ascent: March 24, 2013