First Ascent: Gasherbrum East North Face

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

A Swiss-led international expedition has climbed a new route up the north side of 25,499-foot Gasherbrum East, along the China-Pakistan border in the Karakoram Range. The team had hoped to climb a direct line to the summit of 26,360-foot Gasherbrum II, but severe avalanche danger led them to switch objectives. Cedric Hälen, Johannes Mitterer, and Ueli Steck plowed through deep snow to reach the summit of Gasherbrum East on July 10. The team climbed the 11,000-vertical-foot route, the Magic Way, in modified expedition style, with about 3,500 feet of fixed rope up to 20,700 feet.

See photos and an expedition diary (in German) at www.kobler-partner.ch.Comment on this story

The line of the Magic Way (red) on Gasherbrum East and the proposed direct line on Gasherbrum II (yellow).
The line of the Magic Way (red) on Gasherbrum East and the proposed direct line on Gasherbrum II (yellow).

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.