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Five 14a Onsights in a Year

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Remember when a 5.14a onsight was the ultimate tick? It wasn’t that long ago: Elie Chevieux of Switzerland did the world’s first 5.14a (8b+) onsight in 1995. Now, less than a decade later, Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has demonstrated just how far elite climbing has progressed, by making his fifth 5.14a onsight in a single year. Usobiaga’s onsights have been in three countries, most recently the 130-foot Millenium in Slovenia. During one two-week stretch in April, he managed three 14a onsights, including one route he thought might be harder. And the Spaniard has not neglected the very top of the scale: This year he made the third ascent of Realization (9a+/5.15a) in France, as well as four other routes rated 14c or harder.

Despite his obvious stamina, the 24-year-old from Eibar, Spain, is ranked only fourth among the world’s competition climbers, and he hasn’t won a major comp this year – he’s not the only climber whose standards have risen!

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.