Fixed Anchor Ban Proposed for Tahquitz Rock


"No new fixed anchors for rock climbing are allowed."

This is what is being proposed for the San Bernardino National Forest (which includes Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks) according to the USFS's draft revisions to the So. Cal. Land Management Plan ("SCLMP"). The ban would include any and all climbing areas in designated wilderness in the SBNF. This ban would prohibit any new route development that require fixed anchors (bolts, fixed pitons, slings left behind, fixed nuts, etc.). It would also likely ban replacement of existing fixed anchors, thwarting efforts to upgrade old bolts and other fixed gear (some of which has been in place for 60 years!)Stealth Proposal Targets Climbers No studies have ever been made by the Forest Service to determine whether there is any justification or need for the proposed ban. Neither has the Forest Service examined the likely consequences from such a drastic policy change. More troubling, the Forest Service never consulted with or advised any climbers or climber organizations about this proposal. The SCLMP is available on-line to review and comments can be submitted on-line as well. The proposal is buried in the SCLMP, a very convoluted document which is difficult to navigate and search. In fact, the Access Fund has a Memorandum of Understanding in place stating that the Forest Service will consult with the AF on all climbing-related management issues such as this, and this consultation has not yet taken place. Given the lack of notice and consultation, this proposed ban is probably an administrative oversight – or a “stealth” proposal calculated to take the climbing community by surprise. This Ill Conceived Proposal Must Be Challenged The Comment period ends August 11, 2004. So don't wait, ACT NOW! Comments are best made On-Line, but may also be made in writing mailed to the address listed on the back side of this flyer. Here is how to make an online comment: Go to: 1. Scroll down page to SBNF10. 2. Highlight: "SBNF10 No new fixed anchors for rock climbing are allowed." 3. Now go to top of the web page where the header says: "Click Here To Comment" A. Fill out the info on you at top. B. Provide Comment [see back side for suggestions] C. Paste the text you highlighted in the box by clicking "Capture Highlighted Text" button. SUGGESTED COMMENTS Here are some points you might wish to cover in your comment, or make your own points: (1) Many different climbing areas will be affected by this proposal, including Tahquitz Rock. (2) Tahquitz has been a climbing area since 1936. (3) Fixed anchors have been in use at Tahquitz for more than 60 years and are necessary for safety. (4) Fixed anchors need to be replaced or improved occasionally. (5) New routes may require some fixed anchors. (6) Fixed anchors are NOT illegal under the Wilderness Act. (7) Many other wilderness areas, including NPS land in SoCal, are allowing bolt replacement and actively working on ways to allow new fixed anchors while at the same time avoiding resource and social conflict. (8) The USDA Forest Service unsuccessfully attempted a similar policy in 1997. (9) Fixed anchors are essentially invisible except to climbers actually climbing a route . (10) They are the minimum tool necessary to provide for safe climbing for some routes. (11) This is a life or death situation for climbers. (12) The Forest Service has not studied the issue beside a failed Negotiated Rule Making process, a process that merely considers ideology and opinion. (13) Economic studies (such as the ones conducted by Douglas Shaw of UNR) show the economic value of climbing in wilderness to surrounding local communities. If you make comments by Mail, send you comment by August 10, 2004 to:Mail Comments To: Southern California Forest Plan Revisions San Bernardino National Forest USDA Forest Service Content Analysis Center P.O. Box 22777 Salt Lake City, UT 84122EVERY COMMENT IS IMPORTANT The 10 minutes you take to make either a written or On-Line comment are essential to the future of climbing in the local Wilderness areas. Don’t let those who have targeted climbing to succeed through our complacency. Thank you!