Fred Nicole Problem Finally Sees Second Ascent


8/8/12 - Another significant second ascent has been made, with Finland's Nalle Hukkataival repeating Oliphant's Dawn, an ungraded (and oft-tried) Fred Nicole problem from 2000 in Rocklands, South Africa.

Many climbers, including Adam Ondra, have attempted the problem to no avail. Ondra wrote last year:

"Fred never rated it, just saying it could be something between V13 and V15. Well, I can say it felt ridiculous. It consists of three moves on incredibly small crimps on a 30-degree overhang, and after one hour of sessioning I walked away having done none of the moves. And I heard that bunch of people walked away with same result. All my esteem to you, Fred!"

On his ticklist, Hukkataival attached V14 to Oliphant's Dawn, saying, "A very proud FA from Fred! The ultimate finger-strength test... Harder than any V14 in Rocklands or most other places. Whatever grade that makes it is not important to me. Big respect to Fred for opening such a legendary climb."

Hukkataival said it took him only one session, with good weather conditions backing him up. Hukkataival has been in South Africa since early July, and has repeated almost 10 problems V12 and up.

Date of ascent: July 28, 2012