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Free Greenland

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A strong group of British climbers completed an extremely successful free-climbing expedition to Torssuagatoq Sound in southern Greenland this summer. On the 2.600-foot Igdlorssuit Havn Tower, Nick Boden, Tom Briggs, Adrian Jebb and Rob Mirfin freed the 23-pitch Ujarak at 5.13; this was the first route on the wall, established by a Croatian-Slovenian team in 1996. Ben Heason and Simon Moore free-climbed the 23-pitch Wonderful World at E6 (5.12+). Miles Gibson and Steve McClure established Twenty One, a 23-pitch route with a wet roof crack that they said felt like 5.13d under the conditions. In a back-to-the-future departure from the tactics used in other areas of southern Greenland, all of these routes were free climbed without adding fixed protection.This valley now has dozens of crag-style and big-wall free climbs. It’s the same area where, three years ago, a British team climbed a 31-pitch 5.12c on the Thumbnail, which may be the highest sea cliff in the world. For photos of some of the new climbs, go to:http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/gallery/greenland/images.htm

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.