4/4/12 – Dave Graham has been keeping busy in Colorado. In the span of a week, he made three V13 first ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park: Bear Toss, Pocket Frogs, and Achromatic. Here’s how he describes each:
Bear Toss: “The low, low left [start] to Veritas. In fact, it’s a sick trav[erse] into Veritas, courtesy of Chad Greedy’s vision. Unsure on the grade, but seems to be quite resistant, and quite a step up from the original low left [start].”
Pocket Frogs: “A left-trending trav[erse] leads to an amazing bulge encounter with a solitary pocket. A really nice line, very syked [sic] about this Elkland addition. It’s tall, and has perfect stone.” Graham climbed it after just one session, and is unsure of this problem’s grade as well. “It seems pretty stout, so time will tell.”
Achromatic: “An amazing power problem on great rock. The right line on the elusive ‘white boulder.’ Powerful moves on sidepulls and underclings. Beautiful zone with sick trees.”
Earlier this year, Graham spent some time in Hueco Tanks, Texas, where he climbed eight V13s or harder, including two V14 first ascents (Blood of a Young Wolf and Neon Desert) and two V13 first ascents (Where Love Goes to Die and Bastard in a Basket).
Across the pond in the U.K., Alex Puccio has been climbing well recently, with two V11s and one V12 completed in the U.K.
One day in March, Puccio made ascents of Dark Reservation (V12) and Peckitt’s Problem (V11) at Anston Stones and Crag X, respectively. “Felt like I would have done it first day or for sure the second,” Puccio said about Dark Reservation, but she fell off the end because the stone was wet. The holds on Peckitt’s Problem were equally wet, but she managed to power through to the end.
A week later, she sent Tsunami (V11), an eliminate problem in the Peak District. “Starting hold to matching sloper, and then straight to sidepull. No pockets or crimps,” she described on her 8a.nu scorecard.
Dates of ascents: March-April, 2012