Colin Haley has done a rare solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, via the Supercanaleta (a.k.a. Super Couloir), the amazing ice and mixed line that splits the mountain’s west face. Haley completed the mile-high ascent in a little over 14 hours from the bergschrund to the summit. Significant accumulations of rime ice slowed his progress. Haley had previously done the climb, in December 2007, with Maxime Turgeon.
This is the second known solo ascent of the Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90°), according to Patagonia historian Rolando Garibotti. Dean Potter soloed the route in early 2002 in a remarkable six and a half hours from the base of the climb.
The route’s first ascent was a landmark in Patagonia. Argentineans Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge climbed the route alpine-style way back in early 1965, completing the second ascent of Fitz Roy in a two-and-a-half-day round trip.
Haley, 24, is in his fifth season in Patagonia. This year he also has repeated the Care Bear Traverse across Aguja Guillamet, Aguja Mermoz, and Fitz Roy, with Rolo Garibotti; the traverse was established last season by Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson. Last season, Haley and Garibotti completed the coveted Torre Traverse, from Cerro Standhardt over the top of Cerro Torre. In early 2006, with Kelly Cordes, Haley linked the Marsigny-Parkin route on Cerro Torre’s south side to the upper west face in a two-day ice-climbing extravaganza.
Read more about Haley’s climbs at Colinhaley.blogspot.com.
Date of Ascent: January 7, 2009
Sources: Rolando Garibotti, Alpinist 5