Hallucinogen in a Day


Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed a one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+), Colorado’s premier aid route, on April 23. The two men from Boulder finished the 16-pitch route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in 23 hours 39 minutes. It is believed to be the first one-day ascent, though at least one party has done it in just over 24 hours. Griebel led the first block of five pitches of mostly free climbing, Doak took the lead for about 17 hours to complete the nine-pitch aid section, and Griebel led the last section of free climbing in the rain. The Hallucinogen saw a “free” ascent last year at 5.13 by Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden, who used dry tooling to climb one blank section. But in a note on www.speedclimbing.org, Doak said the climb remains a stout aid test with significant run-outs. “I’ve done about 14 walls, but none of them had such sustained aid climbing,” he wrote. “Every aid pitch required hooking, and the 10th pitch had … at least 35 hook moves.”