Hard New Trad and Sport in USA


Smart Went Crazy on Vimeo

Dropping the bag from ClimbingNarc.com on Vimeo.

News Links: Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. After toproping the route successfully and testing the fall by throwing a loaded pack from the crux (see video), Segal led Smart Went Crazy, taking a couple of falls from the beginning of the V10/11 crux passage before he linked the whole climb. The route starts on Extendogap (5.12c R/X) and goes right onto face climbing, about 30 feet left of Segal’s 5.14a trad climb Iron Monkey. Read more and see photos at Segal’s blog.

Joe Kinder’s new route Visitor Q (5.14b). Courtesy of joekindkid.com.

Hard New Trad and Sport in USA

Meanwhile, near St. George, Utah, Joe Kinder redpointed an ultra-steep Todd Perkins project at the Hurricave. Visitor Q required 80 feet of 5.14b power-endurance. See Kinder’s blog for details.

Dates of Ascents: March 2009

Sources: Matt Segal / Mattsegal.com, Joekindkid.com

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