Alcatraz Gets Quick Repeats


The new mixed route Alcatraz in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, touted as a possible M14, was repeated by Will Gadd and Ryan Nelson in early February. Gadd climbed the route without heel spurs on his second day of effort, and Nelson also sent the route on his second day, using spurs. Gadd then repeated the route the same day with spurs attached. Alcatraz was established in late January by Rich Purnell. Gadd and Nelson felt Alcatraz was much easier than originally graded— Gadd suggested M11 with “full trickery” and M12/12+ without spurs. However, he added in a post on his web site, “The climbing wasn’t hyped half enough. This route deserves a place in the top five great routes of all time. Without Rich’s work it would be nothing.” For Gadd’s full report, visit: