Ian Dory - Lead World Cup in Boulder, CO


With only a few days left before Jes and I made the epic drive back to Fort Collins, it’s been a nice break hanging with some old and new friends Kyle McCabe (Quick Bio Photo), Brittany (Photo BIO), and Bret Johnston. Both Kyle and Bret are really great and talented climbers who are setters on a national level. It’s been great just having some down time and making our way to the outdoors here in New Hampshire to climb. In preparation for the World Cup, I have been clipping some bolts in Rumney, but the rain and bugs have shut us down, yet again. New England has incredibly fickle weather. There are a few climbs I consider myself close to sending, but every time I come to Rumney it’s hot and raining, which is not good for short bouldering lead lines. Kyle has set almost every national championship I have ever competed in from junior to pro; he's the man with the plan. It’s interesting getting to know the people behind the scene of competitions. I feel as I have become more a part of the climbing world—the pressure and head game challenges as a competitor is now in my past.

In this upcoming World Cup I know there are going to be some amazing climbers, and I can only stay relaxed knowing that the first round will only be mid 5.13. If I stay focused, I can hopefully make it to the next round. At the World Cup, located in Boulder, Colorado, at one of my local gyms (Movement), I know the routes will be powerful, short, and consistently difficulty to the top. With such little time clipping bolts, as I have been more focused on bouldering, I am not setting too high of an expectation on myself. However, this doesn’t mean that I am going to hold back on the wall. “A MUERTE” is the expression I am going to compete by.

The World Cup in Boulder is just the first stop of what looks like to be a very heavy next year of plans. It’s including road trips with some amazing friends/climbers, and every day is a different challenge. I am psyched to see what comes of the next 12 months and will, for sure, keep you posted!

Editor's note: Ian recently won the UBC comp, The North Face Open, in Burlington, Vermont. See the highlight videohere, or click here to read more about the comp.

Doxology First Ascent! from james hickey on Vimeo.