Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

News

Ghengis Khan found in the 'Gunks

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

A renewed energy invades the East Coast’s seemingly “tapped-out” ‘Gunksbouldering scene, as Paul Robinson, Andy Salo, Ivan Greene, and Vadim Vinokur establish newer, sicker, harder lines. Ghengis Khan — a line opened by Vinokur in April — stands as the hardest of the local’s efforts, registering at V13 with only two repeats by Greene and Robinson. “The problem is beautiful: it follows this overhanging line of crimps, sidepulls, and underclings to a huge deadpoint finish (crux move) to a really fun topout. Ghengis is a 40-move, straight-up endurancefest,” says Robinson.

In the same cave, Salo and Robinson put up two incredible lines, 36 Chambers (V11) and Gas Chamber (V12). Earlier in the year, Robinson also established What Rhymes with Orange? (V12) — a problem he believes is the hardest in the ‘Gunks — Second Before Awakening (another V12 testpiece recently repeated by Salo), and Forbidden Forest (V12).Comment on this story

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.