Janja Garnbret Becomes First Woman to Onsight 5.14b

Photo: Toni Mas Buchaca

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Janja Garnbret, 22, onsighted Fish Eye, in Oliana, Spain, on November 1. Then, in the same style, she put down American Hustle, also in Oliana. Both go at 8c (5.14b). 

More than 10 women have onsighted 5.14a, with Josune Bereziartu being the first to do so in 2006. Garnbret is the first to have onsighted 5.14b.

Fish Eye was originally bolted and sent by Chris Sharma, in 2009. The 165-foot route has two distinct cruxes—a powerful sequence halfway through, and (the redpoint crux) a technical, crimpy finish to the chains. 


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Fanatic Climbing wrote: “After hesitating in the said [last] boulder where she misreads a sequence, the Slovenian climbs back down to the half-rest below, then, helped by the cheers, finally powers through the last section and clips the chains! Despite her impressive ease, Janja admitted [to] being fairly pumped!”

American Hustle, first ascended by Sam Elias in 2014, is immediately to the right of Fish Eye. The route has seen far fewer ascents, although Swiss climber Cédric Lachat onsighted the route in 2020.

According to Fanatic Climbing, Garnbret warmed up on the first crux of La Dura Dura 9b+ (5.15c) prior to hopping on American Hustle


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Bar none, Garnbret is the world’s most successful competition climber: she’s racked up 31 World Cup gold medals (more than anyone else) and six World Championship titles since turning 16. Plus, she won the Olympics. 

Garnbret has spent most of her climbing career training for competitions. Her best send to date was Seleccio Natural (5.14d), in Santa Linya, Spain. Being widely recognized as the comp world’s GOAT (Greatest of All Time), it’s not a stretch to wonder when she’ll be ticking harder lines, and if she’ll add another first to her bucket: the first woman to climb 5.15c.

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