Jenny Lavarda Sends 8c/8c+: Q&A

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Lavarda on Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+ or 5.14b/c). Photo by Mauro Binelli
Lavarda on Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+ or 5.14b/c). Photo by Mauro Binelli

On Thursday, June 18, 2009, the 25 year old Italian, Jenny Lavarda, redpointed Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+ or 5.14b/c) at Masson’s Pueblo sector, in Italy, for the first female ascent of the route. Lavarda has climbed this grade before, in 2006, when she made a redpoint of Cluadio Cafè 8c/8c+ in Terra Promessa.

Several days later Lavarda onsighted an a 8a+ (5.13c) and sent another 8b (5.13d) on her second attempt in Boscoverde.

Jenny Lavarda agreed to answer some question for about her ascent before heading off to the World Championships in China.

How long have you been climbing?I began climbing when I was 7 years old with my parents… so it’s been 18 years now.

Where to do live?I live in Molvena, a little town in Vicenza, Italy.

Photo by Mauro Binelli
Photo by Mauro Binelli

What is your favorite crag?I like many cliffs… in Italy I like Massone, Erto, Boscoverde… but I like also many cliffs in France and Spain, like Ceuse, Santa Linya… there are a lot of cliffs because everyone has a different style.

Congratulations on your recent ascent of Reini’s Vibes. That’s quite hard! How many days and tries did it take you to redpoint it?I began working Reini’s Vibes at the end of April and eventually sent it after 14 attempts.

What was the hardest part of Reini’s Vibes for you?For me, at the beginning of the route there is a strange and long move, so I had to find the right solution for me. Then the hardest thing is at the end of the overhanging. You have to have enough power to do the last moves from a small crimp with the right hand. It’s a big move with the left hand to a big hold. It’s important to be calm from the beginning to the end of the route, because it’s so very long.

Do you have a favorite route? Reini’s Vibes, or maybe Cluadio Cafè? something else?I don’t have a favorite route, because every route has something too beautiful, nice and something too strange, so I like every route that I climb.

You are also an avid competitive World Cup route climber. How much do you train indoors?During the week I train on my climbing wall that my parents built for me 6 years ago… but sometimes in the evening I will go to Verona (King Rock) to climb indoor routes. I also go to the climbing gym in Innsbruck or to Tivoli to train. On the weekend I almost always go outside to climb and try hard routes.

Do you boulder as well or mostly route climb?I like bouldering, above all in competitions and for training purposes, but outside I don’t like it so much. I prefer long routes.

Photo by Marco Ronchi
Photo by Marco Ronchi

Do you stick to a training schedule during the comp season, like two days on, one day off or anything like that?Yes, of course. My father is my coach and he prepares a good schedule for the most important competitions. So, first I train for competitions and then, if I have time, and when I can, I go rock climb.

Anything unique to your training schedule, weights, diet, rest …?No, nothing unique in my training plans. I bike, run, climb, some rest days… I guess my secret is chocolate and ice cream, I can’t live without them.

What makes you such a good climber?I only train with my father and my boyfriend, and I enjoy being me.

What will you climb next?I would like to try a 9a, maybe in Massone, or some nice crag in Spain, but now I have to train for competitions in the World Cup. On the free weekends I will go try more hard routes. I have already seen some that I like very much. I would also like to onsight an 8b, why not?

Is there a climbing area you would like to visit?I would like to visit many other climbing areas, like Kalymnos, Rodellar, Cuenca, Gorges du Tarn, but also I would like to make a trip to the USA. It has been my dream since I was a child.

Anyone you’d like to thank?I would like to thank my parents for believing in me since I was a child, especially my father who trains me. A special thanks also to my boyfriend, who is my climbing partner. He has lots of patience with me to help me find the right solution to a problem.

Who are your sponsors?Red Bull, La Sportiva, Arsenik, Ferrino, Dogma, Heidi, but above all, my military group: Corpo Forestale dello Stato who give me the possibility to spend my time training and to help me realize my dream of being a professional climber.

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