1/10/15 – In a comeback worthy of basketball’s Final Four, Kevin Jorgeson has redpointed the final two 5.14 pitches of the Dawn Wall, sending Pitch 15 yesterday and Pitch 16 (the famed Dyno Pitch) this afternoon. He is now starting the remaining 5.13 pitches that his partner, Tommy Caldwell has already completed, leading to Wino Tower and the end of the route’s most difficult climbing.
Jorgeson had struggled with Pitch 15 (5.14+) for a week: He made 11 redpoint attempts over seven days, usually falling on the heartbreaking crux near the end of the traverse pitch. After sending yesterday afternoon, he began attempting the eight-foot sideways dyno of the 16th pitch and quickly did the dyno but fell on the 5.14 lieback corner above it. Today he led the full Dyno Pitch. Caldwell had opted for a variation that broke Pitch 16 into two leads to circumnavigate the dyno: a long “loop” that downclimbed around and to the left before ending at the same stance that Jorgeson reached by the dyno move; both men did the 5.14 lieback above this stance.
For Jorgeson, three long 5.13c or d pitches still lie ahead before he reaches the comfort of Wino Tower—no easy feat but these pitches are roughly four to five letter grades easier than the traverse pitches he battled so hard to finish. Another 11 pitches above Wino Tower lead to the top of El Cap, with only one 5.13a boulder problem near the top. The rest is all 5.12 or easier.