Josune Bereziartu - Pro Blog 12 - Climbing Magazine

Josune Bereziartu - Pro Blog 12


Rock "Fall"

For many climbers Easter vacation is scary; the first day I started my climbing Easter vacation was bad, and it finished worse. Rikar had an accident that could have been really serious.

Let’s recount it in parts: I left Rodellar before the weather got everything wet. I just stayed a couples of days, and I went straight to the Las Ventanas cliff to try and onsight Botanics (8b+) (for some climbers 8b/+), which is very close to the famous Pata Negra (8c) route that I sent three years ago. I knew the climbing style; it is the most athletic you can imagine. Most of the route is a big roof, so the holds weren’t too small. I started pretty strong, and there was a big column that my shoes were begging to feel, but I needed to avoid it because it was too wet. Behind the little roof that separates the upper part, my forearms were working hard, and the rounded undercling didn’t allow me to recover the energy to rest enough. It was really disturbing my mind. I went out of the little roof, trying to hook my heel somewhere, and then I reached some rounded holds, while my feet went violently out in the air. This movement almost killed me; I couldn’t hold anything big enough to save me from the desperation and negative thought. I was on the last bolt, I couldn’t even clip it, my energy was ending.


I felt really tired, so we decided to relax a little. Rikar and I went toward Riglos; the idea of holding smooth and big-rounded knobs attracted us. While we were in the middle of this bulky, 300 meter-wall, a climbing shoe fell down. Kaka! Merde! Mierda! Shit! We had to rappel the four pitches that we previously climbed. When we were at the bottom again, a couple of inexperienced climbers threw a big piece of rock from 200 meters high. The rock hit Rikar´s back-shoulder. The impact threw Rikar to the ground putting him in a lot of pain and causing a serious injury in his shoulder. After receiving a quick medical response from the efficient rescue brigade, they took us immediately to the Huesca's hospital and treated him from his injury. It could have been fatal if the rock hit in another part of his body.

The day was too long, especially for Rikar. He never wanted to be mentioned here in these blogs, (he adores his independence) but this time, my dear Rikar, you will agree with me that it couldn’t hurt anything to tell this sad story about you.

We finally were going back home, we were dazed and confused while we were driving in the middle of a heavy storm.

—Josune Bereziartu