Josune Bereziartu - Pro Blog 2


Photo by Rikar Otegi



This summer it’s been pretty different for me as others; I changed completely the climbing scenery. Before I didn’t place gear so much, and, of course, I couldn’t afford such special climbing in such a single and loose rock terrain. This happened in the Ordesa Valley, located in the center of the Pyrenees. I spent all the weekends of June hanging around in Ordesa, having fun on those 400 meter pieces of rock.

In mid-July, there was hot weather all over Europe, and Rikar and I arrived to Chamonix in the centre of the French Alps. We wanted to climb the ultra famous Cassin route on the Walker Spur, in the Grandes Jorasses Mountain (4,208 meters). It would be our first alpine experience, and as soon as we arrived, good conditions for the climbing were installed. We felt that we had the novel’s good luck! We immediately went to try the route. We climbed this wonderful 1,200-meter wall only using ice gear for the very last pitch of the route. I wanted to tell this little story about my special and incredible summer. My very personal summer!

Nowadays, and in the meantime, still my heart and mind are disappointed they are not going together and still are not both focused on my climbing wall as my body is. My heart still is in love with what I experienced in the Walker Spur and ... dreaming for another new one? I’m not sure. My mind tells me: Hey Josune! October is your favorite climbing month and is “just around the corner.” Yes this is true, and getting in shape only comes when something in your mind starts to push your motivation.

Photo by Rikar Otegi


Photo by Rikar Otegi


Conscientious about that last week, I decided to play hard again on the real rock. I visited Vadiello, in the same mountain Range as Rodellar. I like to climb around Huesca; I’m feeling well in those areas. I get many good local friends and there are so many possibilities apart of the famous areas like Rodellar.

So I tried the route called Powerade, a power-endurance 5.14c route, and not precisely my best climbing style. It’s a 40 move, power-endurance route -- a link up between NOWA (5.14b) and the bouldery finish of a 5.13d route on the right. When I always casually go there I get involved in the same curious situation. The thing is that three years ago I sent NOWA, and each time I try POWERADE I have to repeat almost the whole route before joining with the 5.13d route.

First of all, I feel pressure because my mind thinks What if I fall in the 5.14b part? Second involuntary: once I climb a route, I don’t have the same motivation to repeat it. So these circumstances don’t allow me to stay motivated about that specific route. This situation is what I live with each time I try that route.

Anyway I know deep in my heart that if I wanted to have success and as we say in Spanish words: tengo que coger el Toro por los cuernos("I have to hold the bull from the bows”. Which means that first I have to be focused and motivated for that route if I ever would like to climb it. My mind is arguing: maybe I need to kidnap my heart from the mountains...

—Josune Bereziartu