July 2008 – 267
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FEATURES
GALLERY Pawtuckaway granite sweet boulders and bizzled trad through the lens of New Hampshire homeboy Tim Kemple.
FANTASYLAND Veteran alpinist and trash-talker Kelly Cordes confronts his biggest hurdle yet the “hippies” of Patagonia after a quick detour up Cerro Torre with Colin Haley.By Kelly Cordes
THE ORIGINAL SPRAYLORD How did Albert Smith, a pudgy Englishman with only Mont Blanc to his credit, launch the sport of mountaineering 130 years ago? By inventing spray, of course. . . .By Martin Gutmann Illustration by Leighan Falley Sidebar by Luke Mehall
A GRAND IS NOT ENOUGH Ten peaks, 12,000 feet of vertical gain, crumbly rock, and restless weather welcome to the Tetons’ Grand Traverse (V 5.8), seen here from the perspectives of client and mountain guide.By Jeff Burke, with Bill Liberatore Photos by Dave Ryan
THE TINKERER The greatest innovators are often the quiet ones meet Doug Phillips, the Oregon boy and thin-crack-pro revolutionary who started Metolius Climbing a quarter-century ago.By Matt Samet
DEPARTMENTS
CONTRIBUTORS Kelly Cordes, Leighan Falley, Martin Gutmann, Federica Valabrega
EDITORIAL A note from Climbing’s Art Director, Andy Outis
LETTERS BASECAMP HOT FLASHES OFF THE WALL PLAYERS JUST OUT TEN THINGS WHIPPED SPORTING LIFE SUSTAINED
CLASSIC CLIMBSMucho Pumpito (5.10b) two pitches of overhanging Cuban bliss in the serene Viñales Valley
EQUIPMENT The 2008 rock-shoe review: 23 models stone-tested
TECH TIP Sport: click, clack, clip three sporty clipping secrets of the de-gumbified former n00b
PERSPECTIVE Riccardo Cassin: alpinist, author, blacksmith, veteran; Lecco, Italy