Kinder Creates Utah Testpiece

Joe Kinder has completed Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah. The 90-foot limestone route adds a direct start to Golden (hard 5.14b), while eliminating that route’s sit-down rest, to create a power-endurance route with about 50 moves.

Kinder completed Golden early in April, after eight or nine days of work. “Right after I did Golden, with the fitness, I started trying Golden Direct,” he said. “It has a 13a or b intro to where it meets the regular Golden, then a minor rest, and then continues into the rest of Golden’s meat…. The direct start changed everything in terms of links. Basically I would fall on moves I wouldn’t even think were slightly hard on the regular Golden. It all takes a lot of focus and not screwing up.”

Kinder has previously climbed 5.14c routes in Colorado, Utah, and New Hampshire, as well as numerous 5.14b climbs. “I believe this is my hardest route for sure,” he said. “I think 5.14c/d for me. Any 14c I have done, this pisses on. Let’s get another opinion, though—it’s different for everyone. I am sure Dani Andrada or Patxi would do it second go. I suck, but it was hard for me.”

Date of Ascent: April 24, 2008

Sources: Joe Kinder,,

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