Koyamada Repeats Action Directe


Dai Koyamada of Japan has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura, two days after Britain’s Rich Simpson made the landmark route’s sixth ascent. Action Directe was established by the late Wolfgang Gullich in 1991 and is considered the benchmark 9a (5.14d).

Koyamada has done many of the world’s hardest routes and boulder problems, including Hugh (5.14d) in France and the first ascent of Logical Progression (5.14d) in Japan. In 2004, he established a 60-plus-move bouldering linkup in the Grampians of Australia that he rated 8c+ (V16).

Rich Simpson recounts some details of his and Koyamada’s ascents on www.moonclimbing.com.Comment on this story