March 2010 - 283

COVER: Sonnie Trotter locks horns with a major runout to make the first no-bolts ascent of Prosthetics (5.13d), Mill Creek Canyon, Utah. PHOTO: Andrew Burr /


GALLERY Visions from Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk’s near-ascent of Meru Central’s Shark’s Fin; Hueco refl ections; and a Flatirons testpiece for the ages.

GRAVITY LESSONS Four of our sport’s top practitioners take an unfl inching look at our collective impact on the vertical spaces — and what we need to do now to protect the temple. By Conrad Anker, Sonnie Trotter, John Sherman, and Steve House • Illustration by Sean McCabe

THE OTHER THAILAND We all know Tonsai, Thailand’s killer but crowded beachside cragging. But move 450 miles north to Crazy Horse Buttress, outside Chiang Mai, and you’ll fi nd a quiet, singular crag that’s redefi ning the eco-tourism model. By Marisa Aragón Ware Photos by Josh and Dan Morris

THUNDERSTRUCK Thunder Bay, Ontario, is a land of still lakes, endless forests, and bullet volcanic crags, with hundreds of slammer cracks and cutting-edge FFAs awaiting those intrepid enough to explore its sylvan hills. By Brandon Pullan Photos by Mike Landkroon


CONTRIBUTORS Brandon Pullan, Mike Landkroon, John Sherman, and Marisa Aragón Ware

EDITORIAL Guest Editor Conrad Anker reveals why it’s not easy being green.


JUST OUT Five smokin’-hot new gear offerings for 2010

HOT FLASHES Green 5.14: the new (meets old) frontier in elite climbing?

THE HAULBAG Dreaded forest creature The Mossman attacks Red River Gorge; unreal Kalymnos sketch-belay; and Will Gadd climbs 25,414 feet of WI4 at the Ouray Ice Festival

OFF THE WALL Spire bagging on the Navajo Reservation — the real lowdown

PLAYERS The director Chris Malloy, uniting surfing and climbing in his fi lm 180° South

TEN THINGS . . . Mont Blanc

WHIPPED Majka Burhardt takes a hard look at the vagabond lifestyle and its global consequences

SPORTING LIFE Why putting up chossy sport routes is climbing’s biggest grey area

SUSTAINED How climate change is destabilizing the alpine environment

CLASSIC CLIMBS Coyote Tower (5.10c), Sedona, Arizona: a sublime (and sane) Sedona sandstone spire, with 600 feet of raw adventure

TECH TIPS Technique: how to safeguard our precious desert areas Travel: Emily Harrington’s secrets to jet-setting success

MILEAGE Three “lovely” Valentine’s Day road-trip destinations to get your rock and romance on

REVIEWS 180° South, the DVD and coffee-table book; and the Africandome- hunting DVD Waypoint Namibia

ANCHORED Kevin Daniels, Mr. Fixe USA and bolt and anchor supplier for the Anchor Replacement Initiative

PERSPECTIVE Bernd Arnold: teacher, father, Elbsandstein master; Hohnstein, Germany