Massive Squamish Link-Up - Climbing Magazine

Massive Squamish Link-Up

The Squamish Chief as seen from the parking lot.

The Squamish Chief as seen from the parking lot.

Paul Cordy and Matt Maddaloni have completed an extended version of the “Triple Crown” of long, hard free climbing at Squamish, British Columbia. On August 11, in 16.5 hours, they completed three major routes plus some bonus pitches on the massive granite cliffs of the Chief.

After warming up on the 5.10 finger crack Seasoned in the Sun, the two climbed University Wall (5.12a, 8 pitches) and then continued up the Roman Chimneys (5.11a, 4 pitches). Dropping their gear, they ran to the first summit of the Chief, then down trails on the backside to the base. Mounting cached bikes, they rode to the Zodiac Wall and then climbed The Northern Lights (5.12a, 12 pitches). After tagging the Zodiac summit, it was back down the trails to the base of the Dihedrals, where they raced up Freeway (5.11c/d, 12 pitches) and ran down the trail a third time. Total guidebook pitches: 37. Total time: 16.5 hours.

Maddaloni led every pitch of the link-up with no falls, and Cordy followed each pitch, free-climbing about 90 percent of the distance. The two had been gunning for the Triple Crown for weeks, inspired by Sig Isaac’s 1996 link-up of University Wall, Northern Lights, and Freeway in 14.5 hours. Isaac led every pitch of this link-up free, with his partner jugging and cleaning behind him. Maddaloni and Cordy hoped to up the ante by leading and following every pitch. On August 3, they completed the Isaac link-up, also in 14.5 hours, but both men took several falls while climbing, prompting the rematch and the addition of the Roman Chimneys.

Up next? Possibly the Quadruple Crown: Adding Angels Crest (5.10b, 13 pitches) and a fourth summit to the day.

Date of Ascent: August 11, 2007, The Climber’s Guide to Squamish

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