May 2010 - 285 - 40th Anniversary Edition - Climbing Magazine

May 2010 - 285 - 40th Anniversary Edition

May 2010 - 285 - 40th Anniversary Edition


GALLERY A Czech beauty, the jewel of the Lotus, and Captain America on a crack.

40 YEARS OF AMERICAN ROCK Since May 1970, Climbing has covered the vertical world. Here, a look back (with a few twists) at four decades of ascents, clmbers, and ideas that shaped the flow of American rock climbing and made it what it is today.By the Editors

HEIDI ALMIGHTY Heidi Wirtz has always been bold on challenging rock. But after an eye-opening expedition to Pakistan, she's taking on a new challenge: funding the education of young women in central Asia.By Chris Weidner Photos by Topher Donahue, Keith Ladzinski, Celin Serbo

BUOUX At one time, this sunny limestone super-crag was at the center of the climbing world; today, it's fallen from the limelight. But that doesn't mean Buoux isn't still world-class. Come see for yourself...Words and photos by Jim Thornburg


CONTRIBUTORS Topher Donahue, Craig DeMartino, Tom Slater, Beth Wald

EDITORIAL 40 years of ClimbingMagazine


JUSTOUT Celebrate the thaw with sweet new schwag

HOTFLASHES Daniel Woods gives us the lowdown on America's first V16; more...

THEHAULBAG A hairball belay sesh on the Bachar-Yerian; a Washington artist turns rocky vistas into wooden works; Overheard; more...


PLAYERS Colin Goodey and the great slate debate

TEN THINGS . . . Climbing fiction

SPORTINGLIFE Daddy Loves You!: A day in the life of America's most heinous cragging couple

ROADKILL Cruel Summer: life and death on Werk Supp

SUSTAINED New York state budget crisis threatens climbing access

CLASSICCLIMBSBishop's Terrace (I 5.8), Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley, California. A brilliant splitter experience in the granite crucible.

TECHTIPS Trad: Munter madness, from beginner to advanced Technique: Proper rope management for safer climbing

MILEAGE Explore piles of trad, sport, and bouldering on California's dreamy Central Coast

REVIEWSAdaptation, the life of Andy Parkin; Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics;Arno Ilgner is back with Espresso Lessons from the Rock Warrior's Way;more...

ANCHORED Eric Heigl tackles the spinners of North Carolina's beloved sport crag, The Dump.

PERSPECTIVE Adam Henry: crag developer, climbing gym owner, family man, teacher, solitude seeker; Oneonta, Alabama