May 2011 - 295

May 2011 - 295



DEEP WISDOM When Tennessee climbers found a new crag, developed it in secret, and then saw it shut down within a year, it seemed like the same old story replaying in the South. But this time the ending was different—and Southern climbing may never be the same.By Cody AverbeckPhotos by Andrew Kornylak

THE LOVE LETTER Overworked and borderline depressed, a climber and his favorite partner—his wife—plot a dream trip to the High Sierra. The result? You know that bumper sticker that says, “My best vacation is your worst nightmare?” Kind of like that. By Fitz Cahall Photos by Mikey Schaefer

RAPID TRANSIT From the Alps to the Himalaya, Swiss climber Ueli Steck is the fastest man in the mountains, but he doesn’t rely on his genetic gifts. Steck trains harder than most Olympians, and here he reveals his motivations and his methods.By Martin GutmannPhotos by Robert Bosch


Contributors Meet Cody Averbeck, Fitz Cahall, and Rich Crowder


Hot FlashesSasha DiGiulian: 2 X 5.14c in 1 week; big and bold in Pakistan and Patagonia

Off the Wall America's favorite climber campgrounds. Plus, how to reuse or recycle your old biners, ropes, clothes, and more

Ten Things... Dyno! The legends beyond climbing's biggest move

Players Pioneering alpine guide Angela Hawse

Gear We test the latest crop of lightweight, full-protection rain shells. Plus: A sneak preview of three new hard-shell fabrics coming this fall

Tech Tips A quick way to haul your partner past a crux; make your own chalk bag; the big-wall stick clip

Classic Climbs The Headache: a perfect half-day in Zion

Mileage Think Australia's legendary Arapiles is all about desperate fright-fests? Think again.

Perspective Ian Caldwell, the "mayor of Smith Rock'