May 2012 - 305

May 2012 - 305


Holey Land: Central New Mexico is pocket-climbing paradise.

Huecos Over Easy: 10 routes in nine states states that should be on your ultimate pocket ticklist.

Beckey's Favorites: Eight amazing rock routes from the legendary climber's new book.

Rushmore: Inside the new guidebook to South Dakota's crystal towers.

The 10 Pins: John Sherman bowls a Strike on the Needles' bold spires.

New VS. Red: How Southeastern climbers battled for the "Best Crag in America."


Shoes: Five great shoes for toeing into tiny pockets.

Stove: Five multi-fuel stoves put to the test, from Colorado to Antarctica.

New gear: A versatile tent, a high-performance shoe, and a great-looking pair of women's knickers.

Headlamps: How to choose the right light for yoru life, with real world beta from Colin Haley.


Smart Cranking: Lynn Hill on how to make the most of pockets without getting hurt.

Pocket Pro: How to protect monos and huecos with wires and cams.

Rap Tricks: Kelly Cordes shares a way to deal with a chopped rope on a long descent.

Guide's Tips: A safer rappel technique, plus beta for the Cascades and Tetons

Pack Smart: What was on the rack and in the packs for a new route in Patagonia?


Finger Fixes: Three common finger injuries and what to do about them.

Stronger Digits: A 12-week training program for building finger power.

Your Goal: The Nose: Chris McNamara's six-month plan to prepare for El Cap's premier route.

Climbing Pregnant: What you can and can't do when you're climbing for two.