May 2013 - 315



Climbing cover May issue

The Nut Chronicles: The nut is often overshadowed by its younger sibling, the cam. But it's more important to climbing's history than you think.

Nutty Climbing: These nine routes were first climbed using only passive pro; are you up to that challenge?

Cool Couloirs: With May comes warmer temps, green grass, and... snow? Here are six couloir climbs to nab now.

Into the Vast Unknown: Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first American summit of Mt. Everest with this excerpt from Broughton Coburn's new book.

Under the Devil's Spell: Devils Tower, Wyoming, is one of the country's most alluring climbing areas. We rope up with a devotee who's summited 2,000 times and counting.


The Perfect Fit: From hexes to ball nuts, here's a guide to six pieces of passive pro that go beyond standard nuts.

Harness the Power: Testers hung and fell in a dozen harnesses to bring you these five favorites. Bonus: One doubles as a pair of shorts!

Tested: Spring means shoulder season, which brings warm and cold, rain and sun, wind and calm. Here are six layers to keep you comfortable through it all.


Nuts 101: Refine your technique and learn a few new tricks with our comprehensive rundown.

Rappel Without a Belay Device: Dropped your ATC? Instead of swearing at the rock, learn this traditional carabiner-only set-up to descend safely.

Efficiency = More Climbing: Alex Honnold offers his hard-earned tips on streamlining your climbing to fit more pitches into the day.

Revive Your Rock Shoes: A toothbrush, warm water, and sandpaper are all you need to keep your shoes in perfect shape.

How to Stick Clip: Don't let a sketchy start deter you from getting on a hard climb. Clip safely from the ground with this tried-and-true method.

Health and Training

Climb Hard Offwiths: Wide-crack master Pamela Pack shares her three-month, ass-kicking training routine for offwidths.