Metcalf, DiGiulian Crush Pan-American Comp

5/28/10 – With the completion of the Pan American Championship on May 23, American climbing has taken another step forward into the international scene. The comp in Quito, Ecuador, was the first for the Pan American Council, which was formed in February 2009. David Dornian, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) representative for the Council, said these events are the next step to bringing the climbing world to the Americas, as well as providing a chance to bring American athletes more international recognition.

Though the competition was a great opportunity for athletes hailing from countries across North, Central, and South America to compete in a high-profile event, U.S. climbers (and high school juniors) Francesca Metcalf and Sasha DiGiulian tore it up in Ecuador, with Metcalf placing first in women’s bouldering and DiGiulian taking first in lead climbing (full results here). With DiGiluian also ranking in bouldering and speed, the duo’s doings placed the U.S. third overall. With other Americans like Alex Johnson, who currently holds two golds and a silver in World Cups, the U.S. looks to be a top-ranking nation in the climbing world this summer.

Typical to European comp problems, Metcalf and DiGiulian had to rely on technical prowess rather than the pure power moves they’re accustomed to. “The routes were really different than the problems in the U.S.,” says Metcalf. “They did the bonus hold and the World Cup format, and you just really had to think on all of them. You had to figure out the sequence.”

Both climbers have a busy summer coming up. Metcalf will be competing in the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado, next week, then seeking to place in stateside youth comps. DiGiulian won’t be heading to Vail, but plans to travel to Europe and climb in Spain and France, as well as compete in the pre-World Championships in Arco, Italy, and the Junior World Championships in Scotland in September.

Men’s Lead Final Results:

1. Mauricio Huerta (Mexico)

2. Jesus Gonzales (Chile)

3. Diego Marsella (Argentina)

4. Santiago de Alba (Mex)

5. Diego Gonzales (Mex)

6. Ricardo Cancelado (Colombia)

Women’s Lead:

1. Sasha DiGiulian (U.S.A.)

2. Francis Rodriguez (Venezuela)

3. Estefania Mesias (Ecuador)

4. Katherine Alvarez (Ecu)

5. Carolina Rosero (Ecu)

6. Daniela Lopez (Ven)

Men’s Bouldering:

1. Jesus Gonzales (Chi)

2. Cesar Grosso (Bra)

3. Manuel Escobar (Ven)

4. Santiago Garcia (Arg)

5. Santiago de Alba (Mex)

6. Andres Quinteros (Ecu)

Women’s Bouldering:

1. Francesca Metcalf (U.S.A.)

2. Sasha DiGiulian (U.S.A.)

3. Carolina Rosero (Ecu)

4. Katherine Alvarez (Ecu)

5. Daniela Lopez (Ven)

6. Lucelia Blanco (Ven)

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