5/3/11 - After more than a decade, one of America's hardest routes had yet to see a repeat. Yesterday, however, Mauricio Huerta of Mexico grabbed the second ascent of Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d) at Mt. Charleston near Las Vegas.
The line starts on Ghetto Boys (5.13c) and takes the direct finish up Infectious Booty (5.14b). Huerta, from Morelia, Mexico, climbed Infectious last September, after which he said, "I will return for Ghetto Booty."
French climber François Legrand freed the route in August 2000, taking reportedly 17 days over two separate trips to America to complete his ascent. Huerta tried the route several dozen times, saying, "This is definitely the hardest route I've ever done." He fell about 10 times at the crux, which sits at the top of the climb. The crux involves "a very long move from an left-hand undercling mono to another two-finger pocket with the right hand," Huerta says, suggesting V10 for the move. "After that, you have a very bad rest on a sloper, and from there to the top, it's an endurance 5.14a/b route with the hardest move at the top."
Regarding the long gap between ascents, Huerta says, "It's kind of funny that it hasn't been repeated in 10 years. I think it's because not many climbers like Mt. Charleston and its chipped holds, and because the crux of the route is very hard on the tendons. It was a really big challenge for me, and I learned a lot working on it."
This is Huerta's fifth 5.14c, and he suggests that 5.14d may be more appropriate for Ghetto. "I've never done a confirmed 5.14d before, but I honestly think this route might be that," he says. "Who knows? Feels much harder than the other 5.14c's I've done."
Below is a video of Huerta climbing Las Chicas Superpoderosas (5.14c) in Jilotepec, Mexico.
Date of ascent: May 2, 2011